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Aquattro
12-11-2001, 05:21 PM
Give a little more info on your tank. Lighting, H2O parameters,size, fish load, etc. You don't need a drip system to add kalk as there are many two part additives to make up Ca++ levels. Lighting can't be skimped on though for most stoney corals.

reefburnaby
12-11-2001, 05:23 PM
Hi,

Calcium additions and Buffer additions.

This can be accomplished "inexpensively" via several methods. I have used Seachem's Buffer and Reef Advantange (the calcium). It can be mixed with fresh water and poured in to your tank without dripping (J&L sells them for $20 for a 1kg of each). You'll need a Calcium and Alk test kit too.

Another alternative is the two part solution -- something like $60 for two 1 Gal bottles. I have heard that two part gives slightly better results (has more than just buffer and calcium images/smiles/icon_smile.gif ) Again...it just a daily pour in some stuff (sort of like taking your medicine).

As for a nice starter hard coral : start with something easy like a brain coral or a candy cane. If you would like to try something a little bit more difficult, then try a white bubble coral (green ones are a little bit harder) or a pearl. Next ? The usual torches, anchors and etc. Branching kind is easier to recover from a disaster. Hardest ? The Elegance coral.

Hope that helps.

- Victor.

BCReefer
12-11-2001, 07:32 PM
I have a 33G tank with 175 MH and 2 30 W actinic lighting with a Back Pak2 Skimmer.

2 clowns
1 Green Carpet Anemone 3” accross
1 Xenia small frag
10 Turbo Snails
6 – 8 Blue Legged Hermit Crabs

all water parameters are good. Tank was a 27G but moved up to a 33G as it fit my stand about 4 weeks ago. Used all the water and sand from 27G and just added more sand. 27G has been for 5 – 6 months.

I do have a Calcium and Alk testers.

If you think my tank needs more time just let me know. I want to do this right. I don’t mind spending a little money but, I am already working 3 jobs to pay for it so I need to go easy. images/smiles/icon_razz.gif

Many thanks

Aquattro
12-11-2001, 07:46 PM
Your setup sounds fine, except I'm not sure what "normal" is for parameters. Assuming A/N/N is 0/0/0, then the corals Victor suggested would be fine. The LPS corals are a little tolerant of some nitrate and phosphate, so as long as the tank is well thru any cycling, you should do fine.

BCReefer
12-11-2001, 08:33 PM
My nitrate is about 10 - 15. everything else is a 0. My salinity is about 1.025 and pH is about 8.0 - 8.5, the Hagen tester is damn hard to read. I'm thinking of getting a pH Pen.

I am thinking of adding another fish soon. can I add both or should I wait? Does a LPS cause your system to cycle.

I tried to get on the weekend to J&L's to buy a book but was stuck at the sisters instead. Hope to go this weekend to read up on all this stuff.

Patrick

One_Divided
12-11-2001, 08:44 PM
One LPS won't suck up too much calcium.. what test kits are you using for calcium?

Regular water changes will keep the calcium up high enough for one coral in a tank that size. Probably even a few more then that without a noticiable drop in the calcium level.. In my experience that is..

I used to add about 2mls of liquid calcium per week in the same size tank and then I switched to Kalk.. The liquid calcium worked fine though..

naesco
12-11-2001, 09:08 PM
You have a green carpet anenome already>
What kind of anenome?

BCReefer
12-11-2001, 11:05 PM
I am using a fastest Alk tester and a Hagen Calcium tester.

Naesco – you don’t think 6 months for a tank is long enough, before putting in anemone? It has only been 4 weeks for the new tank but all the rock, water sand etc is from the old tank. STICHODACTYLA GIGANTEA is the type of anemone that I have. I purchased it for my clowns and yes I do know that it is not needed.

reefburnaby
12-11-2001, 11:20 PM
Hi,

Say...here's an idea. Wait till your Xenias get nice and big (trust me...they will get pretty big if your tank is doing well)...then trade your xenias for some equipment and stuff.

As for your anemone...feed it lots and give it light. Then you should be fine.

- Victor.

naesco
12-12-2001, 12:00 AM
Anenome are for experts and the Magnifica is one of the most difficult. A definite for experts.
If you are new to the hobby I would recommend John Tullocks Natural Reef Aquariums and Robert Fenners The Concientious Marine Acquarist.
And you are right clowns don't need anenome to be happy. Nothing or a bubble coral is fine.

BCReefer
12-12-2001, 01:11 AM
N

I have both books and read them each several times. Still not sure why you think my tank is not ready?? Give it to me straight. Too soon for my tank? If there is a page in either book that you would like me to read, let me know.

I have not added anything else nor will I until I know what I am buying. I was just looking at all the tanks on people’s Websites and I am curious to see what I would need for a coral. Like I said I know I am not ready to spend a lot of money so I can wait if it is deemed that I need more equipment

I feed the anemone every 2 days as I have heard advice from everyday to once a week. Is there anything else that I am doing wrong or right?

At first I did not want to move into hard corals, cause everything I read and listened to, they seemed like a lot of work, but as I learn more then things that I did not understand 3 months ago is starting to become clearer. I am not saying that I know it all, far from it but I am learning and getting more confident. I would like to try 1 coral, not sure what as I am still trying to figure out the final look of my tank. I have several options in my head and I am trying to place fish, corals etc together.

All advice both critical and supportive is welcome after all that is why I come here.
images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif

Troy F
12-12-2001, 01:14 AM
Naesco, he has a Stichodactyla spp. anemone, not Hetaractis magnifica. I think the lines are quite blurred between S. haddoni and S. gigantea. Though I wouldn't personally buy another carpet I think he will be alright with his set up...until it outgrows his tank.

BCReefer
12-12-2001, 01:20 AM
Darren you had a really good thread going about the bad side of Anemone's but for the life of me I cannot find it.

can you send me a link?

Thanks
Patrick

reefburnaby
12-12-2001, 01:27 AM
Hi,

Feeding every 2 days is fine images/smiles/icon_smile.gif If it stops feeding...the anemone is in trouble. How much food do you give it ?

- Victor.

Troy F
12-12-2001, 01:29 AM
http://www.canreef.com/ubb6/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=000203

I think that may be what you are talking about BC. The title is a little misleading images/smiles/icon_smile.gif .

BCReefer
12-12-2001, 01:42 AM
I bought some shrimp & scallops blended it together. I purchased this ice cube tray that makes 60 cocktail cubes and I mush 2 up with some warm water to defrost the food. Then I use a big turkey baster and feed it directly. The anemone will always take the food and curl up and eat.

I also feed the fish flakes and bloodworm so it probably gets a little of that as it floats around, not really sure if it eats it though.

Samw
12-12-2001, 02:05 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by BCReefer:
I bought some shrimp & scallops blended it together. I purchased this ice cube tray that makes 60 cocktail cubes and I mush 2 up with some warm water to defrost the food. Then I use a big turkey baster and feed it directly. The anemone will always take the food and curl up and eat.

I also feed the fish flakes and bloodworm so it probably gets a little of that as it floats around, not really sure if it eats it though.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Its still early but luckily, my anemones are doing great. The Sebae has turned to a darker tan color which I take it to mean that it is getting healthier. The Bubble has found a shadier place to hide and continues to extend. The Long Tentacle still maintains a green tinge which I take it to mean that it is healthy. All 3 are eating well (thawed shrimp and scallop) and extended during the day.

Got 2 new False Perculas. They first took shelter in the Sebae Anemone on Day 2 and in the past few days took shelter in the Long Tentacle. Today, they are swimming in the Sebae again. It'll probably be a few more days before they decide on an anemone of choice. They are ignoring the Bubble for now as it is the smallest of the 3 at maybe 2" in diameter while the Sebae is about 6" and the TLA is about 4".

Now that I have the clowns, it will be harder to feed the anemones. I may have to mash up the food and feed via baster too.

While doing research on the Flowerpot coral, I ran into this website.
http://www.reefcorner.com/Manual/specimens_to_avoid.htm

Unfortunately, the Flowerpot made the list. Also on the list under anemones was the Carpet. Thought you might be interested.

Oh, what about the Montipora corals. They are hard corals right? I heard they were easy to keep.

[ 11 December 2001: Message edited by: Sam W ]

canadawest
12-12-2001, 02:08 AM
Hey Patrick, check out the corals section of my website. I have mostly LPS corals. See if there is anything there that you are interested in, and I'll let you know what it requires for care, IMHO.

As for calcium, not a big deal with only a couple LPS corals in your tank. Victor's suggestion of Seachem's Reef Advantage Calcium (and Reef Builder) is a good one. They are what I use for my calcum supplementation (and Alk levels), although I am now switching to Kalk. Even though I dose it, it can just be mixed up in small batches and poured right into your tank. If you are doing water changes a couple times a month, you could just add it to your change water to boost the CA. It's not something that needs to be added daily, or even weekly for that matter. Just test the CA levels once a week, and add if necessary. Otherwise just continue to supplement at water change time.

As for "your tank being ready" I think it is fine. How is the Xenia doing? How are the other inhabitants? If they look healthy and are showing growth then why not? The tank is stabilizing (maturing), and you have the better lighting, I don't see any reason why you cant add another coral. You're doing everything slowly and in stages, and that's going to go a long way towards the sucess you're going to have.

DJ88
12-12-2001, 02:13 AM
Hey Sam,

Glad to hear they are coloring up.

Your clowns may go back and forth.. I'd like to have that happen.. looks neat IMO.. lol..

Flowerpots are very hard to take care of that is for sure.. Lots of localized feedings for each polyp from what I understand. DAILY...

Troy thanks for posting the link.. Not that it was my thread.. images/smiles/icon_wink.gif

reefburnaby
12-12-2001, 02:16 AM
Hi,

I believe flowerpots can be kept in a refugium or the sump....i.e. water with lots of nutrients, pods and etc.

- Victor.

BCReefer
12-12-2001, 04:40 AM
After the holiday’s I would like to add a hard coral, maybe.

I do not have any sort of Calcium drip or such thing and my pocket book will not allow for big dollars to be spent. My tank is in my front room so I can’t have a drip using gravity feed since I have nothing higher than the tank near it.

If I only have 1 hard coral what equipment do I need and what coral would you suggest. I would like a frag. if you have one. I prefer not to be spending 30 minutes each night making up mixture if possible, since at the moment I am very busy.

Of course I will be reading up on this. Always paranoid about being flame, but then this is nor RC or other forums images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif

I can wait if the poll is no; you need equipment.
images/smiles/icon_confused.gif

[ 11 December 2001: Message edited by: BCReefer ]

Delphinus
12-12-2001, 02:52 PM
BCReefer,

(Not that this thread has anything to do with your original question anymore...) images/smiles/icon_rolleyes.gif

Sight unseen I have my doubts that your carpet is S. gigantea if it is only 3" across. (Not that S. gigantea is a particularly large species, they're just not all that small either.) I personally don't think the lines are altogether that blurry between S. gigantea and S. haddoni but agree that some tend to exbihit traits of both species and there may be such things as hybrids between the two. Most carpets sold in the trade are S. haddoni. S. gigantea does pop up once in a while but they fare very badly after shipping, they are particularly prone to bacterial infections.

Do you have any pictures you can post? Would love to see it.

BCReefer
12-12-2001, 06:37 PM
Your right it is bigger than 3”. I never realized that 3” was so small. It is actually more like 6”. I know there is a male joke in here somewhere but I will leave it alone.
images/smiles/icon_eek.gif

I have a basic digital camera so I will try and take a picture this weekend.

Andrew the Xenia is doing well. Should I glue the rock frag that it came with to my other rocks? I had a turbo snail knock it over yesterday.

canadawest
12-13-2001, 01:43 AM
My Xenia frags get knocked over all the time, and they don't seem any worse for wear. Generally I just find a spot in my rockwork where I can wedge the frag rock into. So far I haven't had to glue or putty anything in my tank.

(Although the Montipora I just got from Darren looks like it's going to need some putty to keep in place)

Hey Darren, what kind of putty are you using, and where do you buy it from?

Anyways, I wouldn't worry about the Xenia frag rock. In a couple weeks the Xenia will be moving outward and attaching itself to whatever is near it anyways, and that will cause the rest of the colony to be permanently attached there. Voila, nature's glue.

Samw
12-29-2001, 03:10 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by canadawest:

As for calcium, not a big deal with only a couple LPS corals in your tank. Victor's suggestion of Seachem's Reef Advantage Calcium (and Reef Builder) is a good one. They are what I use for my calcum supplementation (and Alk levels), although I am now switching to Kalk. Even though I dose it, it can just be mixed up in small batches and poured right into your tank. If you are doing water changes a couple times a month, you could just add it to your change water to boost the CA. It's not something that needs to be added daily, or even weekly for that matter. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Be careful with the Kalk.

I would like to share my first experience with Kalkwasser. Unfortunately, it was a bad one. I bought Seachem Reef Kalkwasser on Boxing Day and thought I would add a small dose into my tank to enhance coral growth. I followed the instructions and added 2 teaspoons into a gallon of water and mixed it. Then I used a plastic cup and poured the mixture into the tank 1 cup at a time. By the 3rd cup, I saw my tang lying on its side and saw the anemones shrinking rapidly and so I stopped. This tiny amount of kalkwasser in a 37 gal tank was enough to shock some of my livestock to death. I lost a tang, a clam, 2 anemones, and the emerald crab within a few hours. 2 of my corals might not make it either. I've done about 30% water change and plan to do a few more in the next few days.

This was a costly rookie mistake. I was devasted.

[ 28 December 2001: Message edited by: Sam W ]

canadawest
12-29-2001, 05:22 AM
Ohhh geez Sam, I'm really sorry to hear what happened. (I was wondering why your new purchase was up for sale already)

I've never heard of it being toxic like that so quickly, in such a relatively small amount? I mix 2 heaping teaspoons with 1 teaspoon of vinegar into 2.5 gallons of fresh water, and dose over a few hours overnight. I've never had any problems.

Hopefully everything else in your tank pulls through. I would suspect that you had a drastic pH swing or Alk swing, as I don't think Calcium can kill?

DJ88
12-29-2001, 01:43 PM
Sam,

Did you let the mixture sit and settle before adding to your tank? Once that was done only add the unsaturated solution? The white material at the bottom you can't add to your tank..

Just trying to see where it went wrong..

Sorry to hear about that.. images/smiles/icon_sad.gif

reefburnaby
12-29-2001, 02:47 PM
Hi,

I think the problem is that the kalk is a highly caustic solution (i.e. high pH). You need to have lots of CO2 to bring the excess pH down to normal seawater levels. This is why I would drip it at night and drip it slowly. CO2 levels are higher at night. CO2 is generated slowly by the fish and corals at night -- so kalk should be drip in accordingly.

Also, if the fish or anything touched the concentrated caustic solution as you are pouring it, you may have chemically burned the fish or coral.

In Andrew's case, his tank is much bigger so his pH increase will be small (plus he has a lot of fish).

Check your pH.

- Victor.

Samw
12-29-2001, 05:25 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by DJ88:
Sam,

Did you let the mixture sit and settle before adding to your tank? Once that was done only add the unsaturated solution? The white material at the bottom you can't add to your tank..

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Err, yeah, some of the white stuff got into the tank. What does that stuff do in the tank? I guess like Victor said, it'll burn the organisms.