DIY Lighting for Canopy

[fishnut]

I'd like to put lighting in a canopy as a DIY project.

Could anyone tell me the components I'd need for a 2 MH bulb plus 2 VHO FL bulb set-up ?

Does anyone know where I could get instructions for this project ?

[canadawest]

Componets needed:

2 MH ballasts (or one dual ballast)
2 MH lamps
2 Mogule Sockets
Wire for ballast to sockets (unless enough supplied with ballast)
1 VHO Electronic ballast (Icecap or Workhorse)
2 VHO lamps
4 VHO endcaps
4 Endcap stands
Wire for ballast to endcaps (unless enough supplied with ballast)
2 3-prong timers (for setting on/off times for each ballast)
12 small screws (two for each socket/endcap)
1 Screwdriver
1 Wire Stripper/cutter
1 Package of heat shrink tubing (to finish and seal wire splices)

As for plans, it is pretty straightforward. All you need to do is determine where inside your canopy you would like (or can fit) the lamps. Then screw in the sockets for the MH lamps and the endcaps for the VHO lamps. Then find a spot to place or mount your ballasts. Then run the necessary wires from the ballasts to the sockets and endcaps. The mogule sockets are easy, they only require a two wire connection from each ballast. The VHO ballast is a little more complicated as it has multiple wires for each individual endcap, but there is usually a wiring diagram and instructions that come with the ballast.

I built my own canopy and originally installed 4x48" VHO lamps on an Icecap660 ballast. Lighting install took about 1 hour from start to finish.

And I just recently added a single 250W MH lamp, and that was even easier, took 30 mins total (15 mins of that was moving a couple existing VHO lamps to make room for the MH lamp.

Good luck with your new lighting project!

[ 26 May 2002, 13:04: Message edited by: canadawest ]

[Jack]

How far away do VHO and NO bulbs have to be from the MH? I need to know

[canadawest]

I don't know how far away they HAVE to be, but my 250W MH lamp is between two VHO tubes and is a maximum of 3" away from each.

So far after a week and a half I haven't noticed any ill effect on the VHO tubes.

Others who have been using MH longer may have different experiences?

[Jack]

Thanks Andrew, hope I didn't sound stupid. "I NEED TO KNOW" Lol, thanks anyways.

So which way should the MH bulb be in your canopy?
Parallel to the tank or perpendicular?

[canadawest]

In a perfect world, it is recommended that MH lamps run perpendicular to the length of the tank as more light spreads from the sides of the lamps than does from the front and back. (Which makes sense as the back is facing the mogule socket, duh) You are effectively lighting more area of your tank by having the light spread out towards the sides, rather than shooting out the front and back of the tank.

But in most of our "not-so-perfect" worlds, this would take up precious room under our hoods for florescent tubes.

So I run my MH lamps parallel to my VHO tubes, because that way I can still have 4x48" tubes under there with the 250W MH lamp. Otherwise I would only be able to fit 2x48" tubes if I ran my MH perpendicular. I realize that I am limiting the area the MH directly illuminates to the front to back area underneath it, rather than a larger side to side area, but such is life.

For reference, my canopy has a 60"x20" area. A MH lamp and socket is almost 12" in length, so if I were to run it perpendicular in my hood that would only leave 4" in front of and behind it for florescent tubes. By running it parallel, I can maximize the 20" depth of my canopy by fitting 4x48" tubes as well as the 250W MH lamp.

[fishnut]

Originally posted by canadawest:
Componets needed:

2 MH ballasts (or one dual ballast)
2 MH lamps
2 Mogule Sockets
Wire for ballast to sockets (unless enough supplied with ballast)
1 VHO Electronic ballast (Icecap or Workhorse)
2 VHO lamps
4 VHO endcaps
4 Endcap stands
Wire for ballast to endcaps (unless enough supplied with ballast)
2 3-prong timers (for setting on/off times for each ballast)
12 small screws (two for each socket/endcap)
1 Screwdriver
1 Wire Stripper/cutter
1 Package of heat shrink tubing (to finish and seal wire splices)

As for plans, it is pretty straightforward. All you need to do is determine where inside your canopy you would like (or can fit) the lamps. Then screw in the sockets for the MH lamps and the endcaps for the VHO lamps. Then find a spot to place or mount your ballasts. Then run the necessary wires from the ballasts to the sockets and endcaps. The mogule sockets are easy, they only require a two wire connection from each ballast. The VHO ballast is a little more complicated as it has multiple wires for each individual endcap, but there is usually a wiring diagram and instructions that come with the ballast.

I built my own canopy and originally installed 4x48" VHO lamps on an Icecap660 ballast. Lighting install took about 1 hour from start to finish.

And I just recently added a single 250W MH lamp, and that was even easier, took 30 mins total (15 mins of that was moving a couple existing VHO lamps to make room for the MH lamp.

Good luck with your new lighting project!<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">To Canada West:

Thanks from fishnut.

[Jack]

Yah, I hear ya Andrew. My 400w is parallel right now and I would like to put it perpindicular also, but as with you, space is a limiting factor. I think I have 18" but I would love to stuff some VHO in there while running a perpindicular MH with reflector. I am running 2x 40w NO right now and I wonder if I could try and make the MH fit perp. Hmmm, how close is too close for the tip of the bulb to be to a VHO or NO bulb? Is heat a problem with flourscents?

[canadawest]

I don't know how close is too close, but as an updated to my previous post, I have one tube 1" from my MH lamp and another tube 2" from it. So far no ill effects.

Now I have only had the MH lamp for a little less than 2 weeks, so I have no long term observations. Perhaps others who have used MH and florescents for longer can comment?

I don't imagine there would be too much trouble having your florescent tube near the end of your lamp.

[BC_Grl]

Andrew,
I know that this may sound REALLY stupid... but why do you use both MH & VHO? It was my undersanding that you should get either/or with actinics.

Cheers,
jeanna

[canadawest]

Hey Jeanna, there are no stupid questions, just stupid people who don't ask questions! ;)

When referring to VHO lighting it just means you are running Very High Output florescent tubes, and has no reference to the colour or Kelvin rating of the lamps. Of the 4 lamps under my canopy, I have 2 VHO URI Super Actinics, 1 VHO URI 10,000K Aquasun and 1 NO GE 6500K Ultra Daylight.

What should be understood is that "Actinic" only refers to a special type of lamp that encourages photosynthesis and is available in NO or VHO. For example, you can buy a 48" NO Actinic lamp (like the Phillips 03) which is rated at 40W or a 48" VHO Actinic lamp (Like the URI Super Actinic) that produces 110W. They are the same colour, just run at different wattages because of your ballast. They supplement well not only because of the photosynthesis they encourage, but because the wavelength they produce is violet-blue and tends to make daylight K MH lamps (like a 5500K or the 6500K Iwasakis) look more pleasing to the eye (the blue light causes the yellow/green light from the MH to appear more white/blue).

So to answer your question, yes it is common to supplement MH lamps with Actinics, but it makes no difference (except for slightly higher intensity) if you run NO or VHO Actinics. I just happen to have an Icecap VHO ballast, so I run VHO lamps with my MH.

And now that I have more intensity with the MH lighting, when I replace my VHO Actinics, I will replace them with Phillips 03 NO Actinics in order to save money, as my Icecap ballast can run NO lamps as well (and almost as brightly as VHO Actinics) for half the price. :cool:

[stephane]

look I have my VHO prety close to my 250 saki and
never have any problem even if they come very hot

http://www.aquariumpros.ca/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=3216

Fishnut I have pic of my canopy in the link below in my signature

[ 14 June 2002, 21:21: Message edited by: stephane ]

[fishnut]

Thanks to all who responded - I found this info very helpful. Going to test for phosphates and nitrates when I get test kits. I did notice a dead area in the tank in front of the overflow - the red algae is growing thicker here - will set up PH to increase water flow. Glad I didn't go ahead and use "quick-fix" antibiotic before getting opinions from this board - tks.

[Skimmerking]

hey there stephane nice looking canopy. I have a question about the ballast, Have you had any problems of running it in the canopy ?

[stephane]

Originally posted by asmodeus:
hey there stephane nice looking canopy. I have a question about the ballast, Have you had any problems of running it in the canopy ?<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Nope I have five fan in the canopy 4x12v.to suck the heat out of the canopy + 1x110v. soon upgrade to 2x that blow on top of the tank so there alway fresh dry air in the canopy so the ballast are never hot