DIY cube

[Gringos]

I am going to make myself a 24x24x24 cube, about 60g. I was thinking 1/4 inch glass with euro-bracing. I might get starfire glass for the front pane, still waiting on the quote for that one. I will be making an exterior overflow box (1 inch bulkhead) and maybe 2 drilled holes (3/4 bulkhead) for return, all on the back glass. I am still in the planning process so any recomended changes/improvement are welcomed.

[muck]

I wouldn't build a tank that high with 1/4" glass.. :eek:

[mr_alberta]

I don't think you'll be able to get away with using 1/4" glass on a tank that is 24" H. Garf.org recommends 3/8" glass. Or you can do what I did and use 1/2" glass :razz:

Since you are building a custom tank, I'd also drill a couple more holes to allow for a closed loop and returns in case you need more flow.

[Gringos]

Now that you guys say so, 3/8 glass with euro-bracing does sound better. Would 1 hole for return and 2 for closed loop be better? I don't want to be making too many holes.

[danny zubot]

That depends on how much flow you want going through the sump. If it were my tank I'd use a 1.5 inch bulkhead to allow for at least 1200 gph return flow. I'd use only 1 return, probably .75 inch, and go ahead with the closed loop. Did you check out the overflow and head loss calculators on Reef Central?

Another idea would be using half inch glass for the tank with no eurobracing, but its a lot more expensive.

[mr_alberta]

1200GPH coming out of a single 3/4" return is way too much in my opinion. The water velocity coming out of that nozzle would be huge! I would do at least 2x 3/4" returns and maybe put a couple of y's on the ends to disperse the flow even more.

I would go for the larger drain though. You never know when you'll get the itch for more flow :razz: As for the closed loop, you don't have to drill your tank for a closed loop. You can always do an over the back closed loop or forget the closed loop completely and use powerheads.

[Gringos]

I will go with 3/8 all around and maybe 10mm starfire for the front. Now lets see if I got this right. I will want a 24 3/4 x 24 3/4 for my front, back and bottom glass. The sides will need 2 pieces of 24 x 24. I guess what I realy want to know is do I put the glass on top of the bottom glass or around it when I put the tank together. Is a 2inch bracing around the inside perimeter good. Now for the overflow box, can I get away with 1/4 glass?

[mr_alberta]

This is the cut list that you'll need (taken from the Tank Builder Calculator on Garf.org)

Bottom = 23 1/4 " x 23 1/4"
Front = 24 " x 24"
Back = 24 " x 24"
2 Sides = 24 " x 23 1/4"
Top Front/Back brace = 23 1/4 " x 2"
Top Sides brace = 23 1/4 " x 2"

This is for a "floating bottom" tank (all the glass around the sides are stuck onto the bottom glass rather than on top of the bottom glass).

As for the overflow box, you will be able to use 1/4" assuming it isn't 24" high.

[Gringos]

So when I actually build the tank, how do I make shure about the gap between the glass so there is enough silicone in there? I read that a 1/16 gap is good enough. Do I want to heve that much gap, if so, don't I have to take that into consideration when I get my glass cut?

Agreed that floating bottom is better. That said, when I build my stand, do I need to support the whole bottom or just the outside perimeter?
So many questions, hope you guys don't mind. I keep reading but still can't find all the answers.

[Tarolisol]

IF i was making this tank i would go with 1/2" without the bracing, it would look real smooth, especially you are not going to have a closed canopy ontop.

[mr_alberta]

I'm not sure what you mean about the gap for the silicone? You put the bottom piece down first, run a bead of silicone on an edge and push one of the edge pieces of glass onto the bead.

I would recommend Euro bracing even if not for strength but for splash guard.

[Gringos]

Ok I got it now I think. I lay the bottom down, than put a beed on the sides and push the side glasses on. Than I run a beed along the front bottom and the front edges of the side pieces and push the front glass on. Then do the same for the back and apply even pressure all around with clicker straps. Wait 24 hours, than put a beed inside all around and let cure for 72 hours. After that I do the eurobracing, let that cure, and do water test and hope for the best. How does that sound.

I have seen people put masking tape on the glass, is this a good idea. How wide should the inside beed be. I was thinking at least 1/4 wide, so about 1/8 on each glass being joined. Should the silicone be aplyed wider on the inside?

[mr_alberta]

You usually won't need to put a bead on the inside after the 4 sides are up. The silicone will usually squish between the two panes of glass and when this happens, you can smooth it out with your finger (don't wait too long though, or you'll make a mess of the silicone). Don't worry about the silicone the squirts out on the outside. After it dries, you can just go and cut that stuff off.

Masking tape is definately a good idea. You don't want silicone spots all over your tank! IIRC when I build my tank I did 1/4" or so. It'd be also great if you can get a friend or two to help you out while building it.

Also, make sure you clean the edges with vinegar in case there are any residues on it. Most importantly, make sure the glass is dry!

Good luck and have fun!

[Gringos]

I think I will make myself some square braces to make shure the panes are perfectly square. Is this a good idea or does the whole thing come together square once all 4 sides are up? Should I start with the sides or front?

[Dez]

If your glass is cut square, then your tank will automatically square itself up when you line the pieces together.

Des

[Gringos]

Quotes are comming in and I am dissapointed in some of these shops. Most of them want like 50$ for each piece. Plus they say they gota charge me like 30$ to polish each pieces so it will come out nice. Thats like 400$ plus the pieces for eurobracing. Are these guys gone mad or what. I found one place that wants 6$ a square foot and says they dont charge to cut or buff. That sounds much better. Do I need to have those sides polished to perfetion or just have the edges brocken off. I would think it does not matter because silicone will fill in all the gaps right.

[BCOrchidGuy]

Where do you live, if you are in the lower mainland there is at least one used glass dealer who could set you up, he's out on the Mary Hill By Pass, just before it empties out onto the Pitt River Bridge. I can try to find out the name and # if you need it.

Doug

[Jeff]

I am going to make myself a 24x24x24 cube, about 60g. I was thinking 1/4 inch glass with euro-bracing. I might get starfire glass for the front pane, still waiting on the quote for that one. I will be making an exterior overflow box (1 inch bulkhead) and maybe 2 drilled holes (3/4 bulkhead) for return, all on the back glass. I am still in the planning process so any recomended changes/improvement are welcomed.

I've got a 2'x2'x2' cube for sale if you want to simply buy one instead :)