PDA

View Full Version : Ick thread**ongoing treatment


danny zubot
06-06-2005, 04:47 PM
Not sure if this should be posted here but I just want to know what people's success is with Kick Ick? I'm too busy/lazy right now to catch and quarentine my fish to do hyposalinity so I thought I'd try this Kick Ick stuff. Damn Hippo tang! :mad:

OCDP
06-06-2005, 04:49 PM
ahhh Danny, sorry to hear about that man... what a bummer.. Personally no experiences with any Ick meds... but from everyone and everywhere I have read, it doesn't work, as most doesn't, then again, that's not to say Kick Ick WONT work, just going by what I have heard (and most of the rest of us have heard too...) Sorry I am no help lol.. I just ramble.

blood_hound
06-06-2005, 05:57 PM
I have tried kick ich once works fine in keeping ich under control but not totally kill it. But now I just live the ich to my shrimps to take care or QT if I can catch the fish.

adidas
06-06-2005, 06:29 PM
Not sure if this should be posted here but I just want to know what people's success is with Kick Ick? I'm too busy/lazy right now to catch and quarentine my fish to do hyposalinity so I thought I'd try this Kick Ick stuff. Damn Hippo tang! :mad:

well if u want to try ick kick, i have a new bottle sittin here....

danny zubot
06-06-2005, 06:49 PM
I have a pair of cleaner shrimp but they can't seem to keep up. If it doesn't work I'll try a dip or something. I bought the large bottle to ensure I have enough to finish the treatment, but if I need anymore I'll pm you.

Beverly
06-06-2005, 08:29 PM
A recent thread on ich:

http://www.canreef.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=16725&highlight=ich

Nemo
06-06-2005, 08:58 PM
I just soak the food in garlic and give that to the them until it goes away. That has worked great for me

danny zubot
06-06-2005, 09:05 PM
I agree that hyposalinity treatment is the best because I've done it before. I can't dedicate the time to setting up a quarentine tank right now which is why I'm trying Kick Ick. I figure if it works, great. If not, then at least the ick will have been weekened somewhat. No mension in that link to suggest that Kick Ick works though. I guess I'll find out.

phreezee
06-06-2005, 09:21 PM
You'll always get some people saying it works and some saying it doesn't work.

From my experience with my Hippo Tang, it DOES NOT WORK. I say save your MONEY, and spend the TIME to QT.

Willow
06-06-2005, 09:27 PM
i tryed it a few years ago and it didnt seem to do anything for the ick.

takphan
06-06-2005, 09:42 PM
i tried Kick-Ich 3 times:
worked once on banner fish
did not work on porcupine puffer
did not work on lemon peel

since then, i use hypo salinity treatment and have better odds

Tak

Chaloupa
06-09-2005, 05:21 AM
Hey-I am a newbie as such...but this is what worked for me as per help I got...food literally soaked in garlic...I make my frozen food up the night before to feed the following day so has lots of soak time...plus I raised the temp to 85...was slow but it worked....and its natural...my fish are all great and they include a yellow wrasse, strawberry pseudochromis, niger trigger, true percula...I know strange combination but it works....plus now they have a valentini puffer and yellow eye kole tang...no further outbreaks with the new additions...so it must work..I don't like using meds as ..... these fish are so sensitive...and have never encountered meds before....SCARY!!

danny zubot
06-09-2005, 02:10 PM
I forgot about the benifits of higher temp. to speed up the cycle. I'll do that when I get home and see what happens. So far I've only added 3 doses as per the recommended time frames, two of the fish still show spots but the lionfish is clearing up. All fish are still active and eating well but my water is really cloudy. It says on the bottle that skimming will significantly reduce the effectiveness of the medication, so I've only been skimming for a couple of hours on the none medication days.

They make the dosing cycles light then heavy then light again so we'll see how things appear by the end of the weekend and I'll update. BTW, the large bottle if Kick Ick is exactly enough to treat my tank/sump, 80 gallons.

BCOrchidGuy
06-09-2005, 04:00 PM
Danny I'd make sure the Ich is under control before you increase the temp. That speeds up the cycle yes but it also speeds up the spreading so until it's under control I'd stay away from that. Just my understanding.

Doug

danny zubot
06-09-2005, 04:41 PM
Good idea. In my old tank I couldn't get my temp below 84, I never had a single outbreak of ick, go figure!

BCOrchidGuy
06-09-2005, 04:44 PM
Yeah it's tough, a lot of people are recommending tank temps that are lower than what we tend to keep ours at so I wonder if we don't keep them higher to prevent ICH etc.

bulletsworld
06-09-2005, 05:27 PM
I have also tried Kick-Ick several in the past. If your looking to rid the ick, its NOT a fix and IMO, found it was a waste of money. There is NO quick fix, although I wish there was. But since your trying product anyway, you will see yourself in no time.

If it is only the Regal that is infected... and has a history of getting ick, then I would feed foods soaked in garlic foods as well as do water changes to make sure water is prime condition. Also I would look at why he got ick. From new addition? Is it from stress? What caused the stress? Is there overcrowding? No enough hiding places for him? etc, etc. Cause perhaps if that problem corrected Regal will stay ick free.

Best of luck,


Lee

P.S something to consider to when raising the temp, is the life cycle of the parasite does go through cycle faster, but it also speeds up the fish metabolism making them want to eat more, heart pumping faster and play harder. But also the key factor is that the higher temperature the less oxygen in the water. making it harder for the fish to breathe, especially when ick attacks the gill of the fish first, its two double whammies! But something to consider.

christyf5
06-09-2005, 05:33 PM
My regal got ick a couple of weeks ago and passed it on to most of the other fish. I fed Kent Garlic Extreme (peeyew :eek: ) every day and I can't see any ick on any of the fish anymore (which doesn't mean its not there). I briefly thought of using something like RxP or Kick Ich but decided against it and wanted to see how the garlic did. It was slow but it did the trick.

Christy :)

Tarolisol
06-09-2005, 06:02 PM
Frankly i dont think anything exept hypo and copper work aganst ick. Its like a cold there is no cure but you can get over it yourself and grow a slight resistants to it.

danny zubot
06-09-2005, 07:00 PM
Lee, I just bought the regal tang about 3 weeks ago. There wasn't any spots on it at the LFS but with the move and seeing a lionfish as one of your tankmates, I think it was just stress. Lots of hiding places, he swims out in the open much more now that he's realized that Mr. Phoomps isn't going to eat him. I have fed garlic soaked food a couple of times. The only thing I've noticed is that the fish get hungry sooner in the day. I'll keep up with it from now on though as a preventative messure.

Beverly
06-10-2005, 12:36 AM
Stress alone will NOT cause ich. Ich has to be introduced into a system, either on a new fish, in frag water where there was ich in the tank, a cup of sand from someone who has ich in their tank, or any other means of introduction, before it becomes active. Stress may cause a fish to become more highly infected with ich, but stress cannot cause ich.

blood_hound
06-10-2005, 12:44 AM
Stress alone will NOT cause ich. Ich has to be introduced into a system, either on a new fish, in frag water where there was ich in the tank, a cup of sand from someone who has ich in their tank, or any other means of introduction, before it becomes active. Stress may cause a fish to become more highly infected with ich, but stress cannot cause ich.

That is why it is best to put the fish in QT for a few weeks before introducing it to the main tank

BCOrchidGuy
06-10-2005, 03:47 AM
My understanding is that Ich is everywhere. Unless you start with sterile everthing and don't put any livestock in the tank you'll have Ich in there. I'm with Sean, hyposalinity and copper (cuprimine) to get RID of Ich. To help prevent it, garlic, good husbandry, QT tanks and NO STRESSS!!!!!

Doug

danny zubot
06-13-2005, 02:18 PM
Well, I have given up on the Kick ick treatment. I saw very little signs of improvement over the past week, and I didn't want to wait until they were too far gone before hyposalinity. So I've set up a 20 gallon quarenteen tank for them, I should have done this from the beginning. I'll continue the kick ick treatment on the tank just to be sure the little buggers are gone.

I've read anywhere from 2 to 4 weeks is long enough for the ick to cycle and be dead. I was thinking 4 weeks just to be safe though. Confirm?

Beverly
06-13-2005, 02:31 PM
Keep the display tank without fish for six weeks to be absolutely sure ich is dead.

BCOrchidGuy
06-13-2005, 03:02 PM
I agree but even after six weeks there will still be a bit of Ich in your tank, it's normal though so don't worry about it.

Doug

Beverly
06-13-2005, 03:24 PM
From this webpage, Marine "Ich":

http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/marineich.html

Is "Ich" always present in our aquaria?

There is a widely held belief in the marine aquarium hobby that "Ich" is always present in our aquaria and this belief is often repeated on marine bulletin boards. There is much information in the scientific literature that contradicts this belief.

C. irritans is an obligate parasite (Burgess and Matthews, 1994; Dickerson and Dawe, 1995; Yoshinaga and Dickerson, 1994). Obligate means the parasite can not survive without infecting its host, in this case, fish. Theronts have been shown to die if a suitable host is not found within the required time. Yoshinaga and Dickerson (1994) found that few theronts (0.34%) were viable 12.5 hours after excystment and Burgess and Matthews (1994) found that no theronts were viable 18 hours after excystment. Colorni (1985) found that some excysted tomites (=theronts) were observed to be moving weekly after 48 hours. While the life span of the theronts appears variable, it is limited and all will die without finding a suitable host.

If an aquarium has no fish in it, and there are no additions of fish, or anything else that could be carrying trophonts, tomonts, tomites or theronts for a period of 6 weeks or longer, all parasites will have died. An aquarium such as this is an obvious exception to "Ich" always being present.

BCOrchidGuy
06-13-2005, 03:46 PM
Bev oh okay that sounds good but what about the fish, even after a treatment is there absolutely no Ich left on or in the fish? I can understand that Ich can die in a sterile environment with out a host but what about when you add that fish?
Always love your links and quotes, never a single one that's not been an excellent tool.

Doug

Beverly
06-13-2005, 04:18 PM
Doug,

My understanding of ich is if the fish are treated for the parasite properly, there should be no ich left on the fish or in the treatment tank. The key here is proper ich treatment. Obviously, if the treatment did not work, ich would still be present on the fish and in the treatment tank, and further treatment would be required. Products such as Kick-Ich, IME, are of no value for treating ich. I would only use cupramine or hyposalinity for ich treatment.

I had the unfortunate occasion last year to I bring home a fish with ich, though I did not know it had ich. Within a couple of weeks, all the fish in my display tank got ich. I quickly set up a treatment tank with new saltwater and filtration from a tank without ich. As soon as all the ich were off the fish, I put the fish into the treatment tank. Well, none of the fish in treatment tank got ich in that tank, so I kept them in there for six weeks without treatment. They were ich free the whole six weeks.

I must have been extremely lucky to have removed the fish from the ich display tank at the exact time when no ich were on the fish. I was also very careful did not transfer water from the ich tank to the treatment tank.

The ich display tank had no fish in it for six weeks, so the ich went through their life cycle without hosts to attach to. The dang things must have died during the six week fallow period because when I put the fish back into the display tank, there were never any outbreaks of ich afterward.

danny zubot
06-13-2005, 04:18 PM
Doug, thats were the hyposalinty treatment comes in. No inverts, including parasites can survive below a specific salinty, depending on the species. You can actually see the little buggers fall of the fish, once the threashold is reached. After maintaining the low salinity for a while everything other than fish will be dead.

bulletsworld
06-13-2005, 11:11 PM
Stress alone will NOT cause ich.


*STATED- As a matter of my own experience and my own opinion. As this subject always a debate.

Bev, yes this true, I have found in MOST cases. As when you were having problems with ick way back I introduced you to the links you provide and the advice to try Hyposalinity instead of Copper treatment after you had problems with copper treatment suffering loses, as we all have in one time or another. But one major factor, you don't consider with the debates, you never house tangs and neither did I at one time, but do now. I’ll tell you what I have come across….

So I used to be on the crusade of fish not carrying ick, treat Always. But after a few years arguing with others about ick not in tank all times, its introduced, I have come to understand an exception for some species, after carrying & treating other peoples fish, why the term for certain species calling them "ICK MAGNETS"...fish like, Regal Tangs, Powder Blue tangs, Brown Tangs, Naso tangs, and some other surgeons. And after treating Hyposalinity and copper I have had Regals tangs, etc, come back when stressed with symptoms of ick, after treatment had been done on fish, tank was left fallow (6 weeks), nothing was added, treated was done with Hyposalinity & or copper, etc. etc…all the steps….so being treated numerous times but the surgeon fish (i.e Regal) when put under stressful conditions (overcrowding, poor water quality, no hiding spots after aquascaping, skimmer down, etc.) will show signs of what look like ick but no other tank mates will become infected. The Regal (i.e) when stressful conditions are corrected, the signs of ick will pass. Perhaps this is why so many argue Garlic fixed the problem or perhaps it’s not ick at all but looks the same and has similar signs or perhaps it’s misunderstood.

I also used to think that "Ick Magnet meant that the Tang fish were the first ones to show the signs on the ick in tank as they are the ones that get called "Ick Magnet" but after treating many fish, I found that was not the case and in fact scale less fish (Puffers, Lionfish, Boxfish, etc) are the first ones to become infected & show signs of the ick. So why again do, regal tangs, powder blue tangs, etc, get called ick magnets. So now I understand the debates more, perhaps the theory & mixed studies are right, they can carry the parasite, almost viral in tangs. I will continue to follow researchers more.

So as stated reasons above, I will always suggest to first try water quality, determine reason for stress factor and dose with garlic. As chasing to capture, netting, treatment, FW dips, medications, etc, is very stressful to the fish.

But the end result if any other fish besides the tang are infected (also many variables depends on infection)... I will always suggest treatment of either Hyposalinity or Copper.


Either way in this case, IMO, a good call was made here with treatment of Hyposalinty. * CLAP *

Best of luck with treatment.



:mrgreen:

danny zubot
06-14-2005, 02:58 PM
Wow Lee, I'm bummed out now. I really don't want the ick to return after this treatment, that would suck. Only time will tell I guess.

The fish seem to be doing ok in the q-tank even though the white spots have gotten worse in the past day. My salinity is down to about 17 ppt from 31 ppt on Sunday afternoon when I started the treatment. Too fast? I fear time is against me, so if I don't kill the ick soon my clown may loose the battle. His breathing is around 180 BPM! The other fish are quite calm though, even the regal tang.

I figured since I'm quarenteening (sp) every one, I'd go out and buy another fish and put him in there. (bad reef keeper I know) But its doin well and seems to enjoy his new buddies. I figured he came from a bare bottom tank from Gold's so putting him into another BB Q-tank wont hurt him much. Pics in another thread for ID purposes.

Sorry for rambling, I do have a question. How long do I maintain low salinity before starting the assent back up to the reguar levels?

Edit: never mind I found it.

BCOrchidGuy
06-14-2005, 04:13 PM
I wonder if the Ich isn't present in the intestinal tracts of the fish that were exposed and or being treated for Ich. Possibly the Ich is passed out with some sort of digestive stress (fish runs) and the parasite is again present in the tank. Who knows, a lot of good information and insite here though. Thanks Lee, thanks Bev.

Doug

bulletsworld
06-14-2005, 06:12 PM
Wow Lee, I'm bummed out now. I really don't want the ick to return after this treatment, that would suck. Only time will tell I guess.

In your case, guessing by the severity of the infection and ALL your fish being infected, the mild rule of a little sprinkle of ick on the regal tang ONLY is NOT the case for you. Time is of the essence.



The fish seem to be doing ok in the q-tank even though the white spots have gotten worse in the past day. My salinity is down to about 17 ppt from 31 ppt on Sunday afternoon when I started the treatment. Too fast?


Please tell me your using a refractometer ONLY to measure the salinity, as this is the safest method for measuring. Its not uncommon for the infection to grow while its resisting treatment. Ick doesn't like low salinity. The ick has to rupture to surface & fall off the fish. Your doing good though, but now you should wait for almost 24hrs before going to next step or you will come into big problems. Gradually lower the salinity gives not only the fish time to adjust to lower salinity but more importantly ensures the bacteria in the biological filter can adjust. Or else Ammonia spike and or PH drop.

Here is a great site of reference that you can keep referring back to while treatment that may also answer most of your questions.

http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/hyposalinity.html

Questions it may not answer. The problem with lowering the salinity I have found is that if you don’t let the salinity & bacteria catch up at 17ppt (Wait approx 24hrs) and rush to next step it will kill your bacteria in your filter bed creating a massive spike in ammonia. YIKS! Hence the NEED to let it adjust slowly. I hate this part because the wait seems so long and while your waiting, your fish are in a small tank, all together, that’s bare bottom where the ick life cycle is reproducing & hosting easier from 3-7days. YIKS! Once you get down though to 1.010, you can wait a few hours before going to 1.009 and maintain that level for 6weeks, leaving your main tank fish free.

When will you see results ick gone? After you have dropped down to 1.009 and maintain that you should see results or completely gone in 10-14 days after treatment. But Leave the fish in there for remaining time, leaving your main tank fallow.



I figured since I'm quarenteening (sp) every one, I'd go out and buy another fish and put him in there. (bad reef keeper I know) But its doin well and seems to enjoy his new buddies. I figured he came from a bare bottom tank from Gold's so putting him into another BB Q-tank wont hurt him much..

That’s where you’re wrong and I’ll tell you why. In the past I did this very thing to what I came to regret. Thinking I’m already treating all my fish in a QT tank with Hypo, but there was this other fish (porcupine puffer) I was eyeing so I got it to & figured since I’m doing treatment I might as well treat another & save time. DOH! WRONG!! Turns out while I was treating all the fish over a few weeks of treatment they showed no more signs of ick but their health was decreasing, pale in color, breathing became lethargic for some, a tang stop eating, starting doing a twitch, I couldn’t figure out what was going on. Turns out the fish I added (Porcupine Puffer) brought Marine Velvet (Amyloodinium ocellatum) in the QT tank. DOH! Before I knew what hit me I was losing fish. Hyposalinity doesn’t treat Marine Velvet but copper does. Because of my wrong judgement it cost me most of my livestock & I lost some of my favourite fishy friends. Was a very sad day for me. So as I learned, NEVER to ASSUME your new addition have NO disease. BETTER TO BE SAFE THEN SORRY. Because you added this fish, your treatment option would have been better to go with copper. Other factors to when adding another fish in your QT tank with the others is the increase of Bioload.. But since your already in process with Hyposalinity I will keep my fingers crossed for you.


Keep us updated. Here if you need any help.


P.S for your clown if heavily infected besides the other fish, I would consider a FW dip to relieve a bit of the ick. Worth a try. Also make sure your QT tank and or FW dip water are aerated well, try air stones, they work great. Also don't raise temperature during Hypo treatment, harder on fish & also water evaporates faster making it hard to keep the level of 1.009 for Hyposalinity to be effective. I keep temp at about 77-78 only.

danny zubot
06-14-2005, 08:23 PM
Thanks Lee, good advice.
I am using a refractometer, got tired of the other crap a long time ago.
I'm not too worried about NH3 spike right now because the constant swap in water, but after I've reached 9ppt I'll watch my levels more. So tonight I'll bring it down to about 13 ppt then 10 and 9 tommorow.

bulletsworld
06-14-2005, 08:59 PM
Good Stuff! :mrgreen:


Sounds like your well on your way! :mrgreen:



BYE BYE ICH! :2gunfire:

(Hehe just love that emoticon)

danny zubot
06-14-2005, 09:05 PM
:snipersm: :2gunfire: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :2gunfire: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm:

Beverly
06-14-2005, 09:14 PM
Have to disagree with Lee on the FW dips:

From Marine "Ich"
http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/marineich.html

Are freshwater dips effective?

Freshwater dips are generally ineffective in the treatment of marine "Ich" infestations. Trophonts burrow deeply into the epithelium where they are generally protected from external influences. Colorni (1985) found that even after 18 hours in freshwater, infected fish still have trophonts attached in the same positions as they had held before the freshwater treatment. The trophonts later detached and completed their life cycle as normal.

Trophonts penetrate the epithelium which causes a loss in osmoregulatory capability. Infected fish are less able to cope with a sudden and drastic change in the ionic concentration of their environment. This is likely to cause further stress to the fish which will impair their ability to acquire immunity to the parasite.


Quoting Doug: I wonder if the Ich isn't present in the intestinal tracts of the fish that were exposed and or being treated for Ich. Possibly the Ich is passed out with some sort of digestive stress (fish runs) and the parasite is again present in the tank.

I highly doubt it, but have not researched such a possibility. Marine ich is only an external parasite as far as I know. Why not ask Dr. Ron on RC for a more definitive answer?

bulletsworld
06-14-2005, 09:15 PM
:snipersm: :2gunfire: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :2gunfire: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm: :2gunfire: :snipersm:


:rofl: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

bulletsworld
06-14-2005, 09:30 PM
From Marine "Ich"
http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/marineich.html

Are freshwater dips effective?

Freshwater dips are generally ineffective in the treatment of marine "Ich" infestations.

Infected fish are less able to cope with a sudden and drastic change in the ionic concentration of their environment. This is likely to cause further stress to the fish which will impair their ability to acquire immunity to the parasite.



Bev, I can agree with you on this one....

as its definitely NOT a treatment of riding Ich. I just hate doing FW dips too because it is something that is hard on the fish & stressful to watch. Temp & PH can be hard to match & I think the stress alone is more damaging then the little bit of ich that might fall off. I did find it only worked to rid very little ich, if the ich had surfaced and was mature enough that it was ready to fall off. Although every little bit helps I figure. I do agree there is pro's and con's to FW dips though and try to stay away from them unless worse case.

Good point Bev! :mrgreen:

BCOrchidGuy
06-15-2005, 06:51 AM
Still think I'll buy stocks in Cuprimine. Love the stuff.......

Doug

Chaloupa
06-15-2005, 06:57 AM
WOW! so much on a single topic! Nice to see that there are so many out there with experiences to share, I only wish there were an easy..."Do This" option!

outtafocus
06-20-2005, 04:51 AM
I made the mistake of putting two true percs in my 10gal on saturday without quarentine. I figured since I dont have any fish I dont need to QT, well I just noticed the tell tale white dots. Damn.
Of course I just lent my spare 10gal to a friend to house her turtle for a week while she upgrades his tank.
I want to go the copper method or cupramine but all I have to use as a QT tank right now is a little 2gal tank. Can these small clowns do ok in such a small QT tank?
Im kicking myself now.

danny zubot
06-20-2005, 04:10 PM
You could treat them with copper in a 2 gallon tank quite easily. Just be sure to adjust the dosage accordingly.

IslandReefer
06-20-2005, 04:37 PM
Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't Joyce Wilkison (clown fish book)
say that clowns have a low tolerance to copper?.....just FYI in case
Cheers

EmilyB
06-20-2005, 07:26 PM
She mentions she doesn't use it on her broodstock as it may cause delayed spawning/sterility issues.

outtafocus
06-20-2005, 11:23 PM
I am going to pick up some cupramine today, and put the clowns in the lil 2gal.
Thanks. Now I know better.

outtafocus
06-21-2005, 02:37 AM
who would have thought it would be such a pain to get 2 clowns out of a 10gal.
Im affraid of knocking down my rock work and knocking over the corals.

Edit: Well I got them out, but how come I feel so guilty?

danny zubot
06-21-2005, 02:43 PM
So after 9 days in quaranteen the fish are doing very well. They've lost all their spots and are eating and playing. My new wrasse and my lionfish are now buddies, and have a new game. Its called, "Play dead, then I'll sit on you!"

I need to do a water change on the Q-tank, but the water restrictions in Calgary are making me feel guilty about it. Convince me!

Beverly
06-21-2005, 08:37 PM
For the health of your fish, do the water change. It's not like you are using the water for something wasteful. Fish health is totally important :exclaim:

littlesilvermax
02-16-2007, 09:28 PM
How low of salinity should I go for hypo-salinity treatment? 1.010, 1.012?

Thanks.