Aqua-safe ro/di users

[Richer]

I'm thinking about buying the aqua-safe ro/di unit off of ebay, but have a couple of concerns.

I realize that I will need to flush the filter every few weeks, does this unit come with a membrane flusher?
I don't want to pierce my cold water line to feed the unit. What can I do instead?

Thanks
-Rich

[christyf5]

I bought one in October of 2003. It should have a membrane flush valve on it, I just leave mine open for about 5 mins every week or two. Also I didn't want to pierce my cold water pipe either so I bought one of these: http://www.jlaquatics.com/cgi-bin/shopping/jalstore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=ro-kpfaus

Works like a charm! :biggrin:

Christy :)

[Richer]

Perfect, thanks for the quick reply Christy :razz:

-Rich

[Nemo]

I just recieved mine yesterday. Yes it does come with a flush for the RO filter, and the above post is perfect way to avoid drilling the line.

I had 2 problems with mine.

1. The auto shut off valve was installed backwards.

2. I was missing 2 fittings

Neither one was a big deal, I do alot of plumbing and was able to get it going without any issues. but the instructions kinda suck, so read them over a few times and you will need to use the pic they send to figure out the lines.


Robert

[G1GY]

Hey Richer,

If you want the whole installation and user guide for the Aquasafe home plus unit, just PM me your email addy and I'll send it to you now!

BTW, piercing the cold water line is not a big deal at all. :smile:

[StirCrazy]

BTW, piercing the cold water line is not a big deal at all. :smile:

nope not until you go to get rid of it :mrgreen: for 3 or 4 bucks you can get a in-line fitting that has a 1/4" compression fitting "T" on the side. you undo your line from the water shut off valve to the sink and put this on and then reconnect it to the end. when you move you just take that part out and hoke everything back up normal.

Steve

[G1GY]

BTW, piercing the cold water line is not a big deal at all. :smile:

nope not until you go to get rid of it :mrgreen: for 3 or 4 bucks you can get a in-line fitting that has a 1/4" compression fitting "T" on the side. you undo your line from the water shut off valve to the sink and put this on and then reconnect it to the end. when you move you just take that part out and hoke everything back up normal.

Steve

The tap that you peirce the cold water line has a needle valve for shut off!

Have you ever seen how a humidifer is tied in? Or many ice makers?
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[StirCrazy]

BTW, piercing the cold water line is not a big deal at all. :smile:

nope not until you go to get rid of it :mrgreen: for 3 or 4 bucks you can get a in-line fitting that has a 1/4" compression fitting "T" on the side. you undo your line from the water shut off valve to the sink and put this on and then reconnect it to the end. when you move you just take that part out and hoke everything back up normal.

Steve

The tap that you peirce the cold water line has a needle valve for shut off!

Have you ever seen how a humidifer is tied in? Or many ice makers?
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

ya but you have to leave it there when you move your RO because that other spot would be so much better :mrgreen:

[G1GY]

ya but you have to leave it there when you move your RO because that other spot would be so much better :mrgreen:

The pipe tap with a needle valve is worth around 3 or 4 bucks.

And My RO/DI is piped right to my tank! :razz:

[StirCrazy]

ya but you have to leave it there when you move your RO because that other spot would be so much better :mrgreen:

The pipe tap with a needle valve is worth around 3 or 4 bucks.

you just sit here and wait for a reply :mrgreen:

My point was you can spend the same amount of money and move it all you want and not have to buy a additional mounting point. also the pricing valves can crimp the line a bit if you mess up putting them on, not often but I have had to fix a couple mistakes from people trying to hook tap water units up.

Steve

[G1GY]

you just sit here and wait for a reply :mrgreen:

My point was you can spend the same amount of money and move it all you want and not have to buy a additional mounting point. also the pricing valves can crimp the line a bit if you mess up putting them on, not often but I have had to fix a couple mistakes from people trying to hook tap water units up.

Steve

Your in stealth mode there! (Lurking the board cloaked or something)

OK then, The peircing valve should not be used by anyone who can't opperate a screwdriver. :lol:

[StirCrazy]

you just sit here and wait for a reply :mrgreen:

My point was you can spend the same amount of money and move it all you want and not have to buy a additional mounting point. also the pricing valves can crimp the line a bit if you mess up putting them on, not often but I have had to fix a couple mistakes from people trying to hook tap water units up.

Steve

Your in stealth mode there! (Lurking the board cloaked or something)

OK then, The peircing valve should not be used by anyone who can't opperate a screwdriver. :lol:

agreed! :mrgreen:

Steve

[Canadian Man]

:lol: You two :lol:

What if they don't know how to opperate an old fashioned screwdriver but know how to use a new "high tech" cordless drill :eek: :razz:

[Tarolisol]

When you order the unit off ebay you have a choice of three different attachments to have one is the need piercing and other is the faucet attachment and theres one other i cant remember.

[christyf5]

I bought the faucet adapter because I am renting and I'm sure my roommate (landlord)would have been thrilled if I had left her with a hole in her water pipe (regardless if it could have been fixed its nice to know I don't have to do it).

Christy :)

[G1GY]

I bought the faucet adapter because I am renting and I'm sure my roommate (landlord)would have been thrilled if I had left her with a hole in her water pipe (regardless if it could have been fixed its nice to know I don't have to do it).

Christy :)

I'm not saying it's wrong to use the faucet adapter, just that it's not a big deal at all to tap into a cold water supply.

Each to their own I guess. :smile:

[BCWolfen]

Hey guys, just checking out ebay (can't believe how much cheaper than at Home depot, insane) for a ro/di unit. I don't think my under the counter unit will provide me with the amount of water I'll need, and its hooked up to my fridge and drinking tap so I'd like to keep the new one seperate.

Anyway I'm not sure which way to go between the 2 most common ones I've seen.

I like the AQUARIUM 110GPD RO+DI REVERSE OSMOSIS FILTER
at http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20756&item=4348780600&rd=1
As it seems to have standard filters and you buy extra resin and accesories for them.

The other one USA Reef 6 st 100GPD Reverse Osmosis RO+DI Water Filter at http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20684&item=4347902785&rd=1
Also seems good, but it looks like it may have proprietary filters that can only be ordered from them.

Does anyone have any suggestions or comments on either unit?

Thanks

[StirCrazy]

go with the one out of Vancouver it will be cheaper. for the second one they are standard sized filters but the DI and post carbon (which you don't need for the tank) are different style but still common. also it says US shipping only.

the first one says USP shipping at 30.00 US to Canada so add 35.00 brokerage and some more for duty and you are looking at 100 cdn on top of what you pay easy.

Steve

[StirCrazy]

I don't think my under the counter unit will provide me with the amount of water I'll need, and its hooked up to my fridge and drinking tap

Thanks

you could upgrade the membrane and put a take off inline befor it goes to your tap. a lot cheeper and will work well.

Steve

[TNTCanada]

What is the cheepest RO Di filter there is around here (BC) that anyone has seen?

[Nemo]

I picked my 6 stage off of Ebay for 69.00 USD


Robert

[BCWolfen]

you could upgrade the membrane and put a take off inline befor it goes to your tap. a lot cheeper and will work well.

Steve

Thanks Steve I appreciate the input. I will probably go with the first one.
My under counter unit has a small resevoir, but it pretty much is reduced to a very slow flow rate by the time is has filled a 2L bottle. Couldn't imagine waiting for a 5 to 10Gal pail with it sitting in the sink. I'll hook the new one up in the laundry room so it can sit there as long as it wants to fill a bucket.

[BCWolfen]

Alright, going to order one of these today. One more question. The extra 3.2 gallon pressure tank? I know its not need but its not to much more to get it as well.

Nice to have?? or waste of money??

[G1GY]

Alright, going to order one of these today. One more question. The extra 3.2 gallon pressure tank? I know its not need but its not to much more to get it as well.

Nice to have?? or waste of money??

I have the 3.2 gallon tank and like having it. I think it's worth the extra 20 or 30 bucks.

[StirCrazy]

Alright, going to order one of these today. One more question. The extra 3.2 gallon pressure tank? I know its not need but its not to much more to get it as well.

Nice to have?? or waste of money??

how big is the one you have on your tap? you could always plumb it in-line with that one if you have the room and increase your capacity.

Steve

[BCWolfen]

Steve, The under the counter is a canister (2 Gallon I think) with the fileters attached to the side and a pressure pump. Its a nice compact unit for its purpose but doubt it'll do what I want. The new one in the laundry room will have much better access for filter changes, flushes, and water access.

[BCWolfen]

Just finishing up mounting/plumbing the ro/di unit. The unit has 2 output. One which they say to hook the standard faaucet adapter to and the other they have just a small ball valve. Now the one with the small ball valve is the DI water valve. Now I'm confused. lol I was under the impression that the RO/DI was a complete process coming out of one valve at the end. Apparently not. What is the DI water (deionization) used for? I'm reading now that it is not required for the tank. Only the RO water is needed?

Thanks for the info,
Yours truly, a slightly confused Gerald

[Willow]

the ro/di goes into your tank. just the ro skipping the di is for drinking water.
di tastes like crap for some reason.

[BCWolfen]

Thats where I'm confused Willow. The unit has 2 faucets one for di and one for ro. The input comes from the Carbon filters and then goes through a T. The T goes into the resin chamber (the di I assume) which has a tap on the other end. The T then continues to another T this one branches to the tank (extra volume) and also goes through the ro filter and out the sink faucet. From what I can tell if I want ro/di out of the faucet would I not have the take the output of the resin chamber and plumb that into the T before the tank/ro filter? Or does the resin chamber being plumbed where it is provide anough contact to operate.

Anyone have an answer that will solve my confusion?? lol

[BCWolfen]

Ok after ready some websites I think I have figured it out. If you look at the image below you can see where the main blue feed comes up. The first tee branches off into the DI unit (blue cap)which has a tap on the other end. The 2nd tee branches off to the RO unit (white cap) and the tank(yellow line). The RO chamber has a white line with a tap on the end.
So 2 chambers, 2 seperate taps.

http://www3.telus.net/bcwolfen/images/ro.jpg

From what I have read DI water tastes bad so it makes sense that they designed it this way. Also RO wastes more water than DI. But seeing as neither really matter and if you run RO water through the DI chamber then you can go much longer before recharging/replacing the resin. (again from what I've read tonight)

So my thought is this. Switch the locations of the RO & DI chambers. This will allow me to run from the feed (blue line) into the RO chamber and the tank (1st tee). That way I still have my 3.2 Gal of stored prefiltered water.

Remove the tap from the outout of the RO and run it into the tee attached to the DI chamber. Cap the other end of the tee and attach my tap to the output of the DI unit.

This as far as my basic plumbing skills can figure out, will give me nice RO/DI water.

Am I correct in this assesment?? <<--- IGNORE THIS QUESTION :redface:

OK NM I am dumb. There I admit it. The RO is the BIG chamber before the 2 smaller ones. The 2nd small chamber is just a 2nd inline carbon filter to improve taste. So unless I'm worried about how the fishies think my water tastes, take water from the DI tap.

They really should provide better instructions with these things. I actually had to find a website to show how to hook the hoses up as the leaflet that came with it showed some parts and had a black and white image of the unit assembled. Thats helpful. LOL

[Tarolisol]

Your set up looks nothing like mine :eek:

[G1GY]

I drink the di water! Then again the last stage of my system is carbon. :smile:

[Tarolisol]

Yes i have carbon after my DI as well.

[DiscusZ]

This is one one I got recently (within the last few weeks)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20684&item=4349233563

The guy is in Canada so shipping is via UPS and no customs/brokerage fees which is awesme

Cost me about $122 (shipping and GST)

Setup was a piece of cake.. I thought I was missing some fittings at first but they were attcjhed.. only 3 were not attached.

Jim