Looking for some guidance

[5gluder]

Hello,

I'm hoping that some of you might be able to help me out. Over the last 6 months(tank is 14 months running) or so i have been trying to fight off what i think is Cyanobacteria in my tank. I have tried many things but nothing has worked. The specs on my tank are:

one spot foxface, clownfish, royal gramma, tail spot blenny and dracula goby
60 gallon with 25 gallon sump(cheato fuge)
running leds for 8 hours
2 jebao rw-4 pumps
dc6000 jebao pump running at almost full capacity
api - ammonia - 0
api - nitrite- 0
api - nitrate- 0
hanna - phospahte - 0.02
ph range - 8.22 - 8.47
temp range 77-80

I have increased flow, changed the locations of the circulation pumps, changed food, reduced food amount, increased water changes to 20% twice a week, lights out for 3 days and changed salt. My concern is now my foxface seems to have this red stuff on its fins as well. All other fish are fine but for some reason this looks like its attaching onto the foxface.

The rock was cured for about 6 months before setting up the tank.

http://i371.photobucket.com/albums/oo156/5gluder/20160809_154309.jpg

[5gluder]

Forgot to mention that i'm running RO water and GFO.

[Myka]

That is probably dinoflagellates, but sometimes there is a brownish cyanobacteria. Dinos can be pretty persistent.

Btw, your Dracula Goby is a Hi-Fin Goby.

[FishyFishy!]

Do you have any clean up crew?

[5gluder]

Yes i have a cuc, turbo, astrea, nassarius and margarita snails and various crabs. Total of 15 crabs and 20 snails.

[5gluder]

Anyone know where i could buy Metronidazole Powder in Canada?

I came across this thread on Dino:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2307000

My plan is to try h202 first, if no success hopefully Metronidazole will work. I know seachem makes metroplex but if i can get a generic Metronidazole that will suffice.

[Myka]

I think maybe your waterchanges aren't very effective. Could you describe how you do a waterchange? What steps do you follow? Do you use RO/DI water or tap water? If RO/DI, have you checked the TDS of the product water?

Even though Metro is generally considered reef-safe(ish?), it's not something I would be adding to my reef.

[5gluder]

I use spectra RO/DI, just replaced all the filters a couple months ago, i have a TDS meter and output reading is 0. Based on the thread from reefcentral some say not to do any water changes as the Dino thrives. At this point i don't have very much coral left so if using Metro only affects coral in the short term i'm fine with that. I made a decision not to purchase any coral since this started 6-7 months ago until i have the bacteria all cleared.

The steps for the water change is filling a 30 gallon tub and mixing the day of. I have used various types of salt, once mixed i transfer over to the tank on the same day. I checked the PO4(hanna) in the mixing tub and was registered at 0, i supposed i could try a different tub if the concern is leeching.

[Myka]

Yeah, but there's a reason it came to be. :) I'm more curious about the waterchange itself - do you simply remove old water and replace with new water or do you get in there and turkey baste the rocks and vacuum the sand?

Do you have a microscope by chance? It's easy to tell dinos from cyano under microscope.

Dinos:
http://www.lookingcloser.net/reefkeeping/dinoflaglow.jpg


Cyano:
http://www.coral-reef-info.com/image-files/blue-green.jpg

[5gluder]

Oh sorry, I have been removing sand that was covered in the brown gunk as well as surface cleaning the sand. I haven't added the sand back too date so probably half has been siphoned so far. In the past this stuff didn't coat my rocks like they have now so I haven't really siphoned any out of the rocks. I would blast the rocks and then do a water change thereafter.

Yeah I'm also really confused as to why I have this, all my rock was dried, bleached and then cured for a very long time while I got the tank ready. I really wanted to start out with a clean system. I don't have access to a microscope.

[Craigdillman]

If it's Cyano do chemi clean works like a charm. There is no harm using it, if you use chemi clean and it happens to be Dino's it won't affect anything and then you know you have Dino's for sure

Should be a win win

[Myka]

If it's Cyano do chemi clean works like a charm. There is no harm using it, if you use chemi clean and it happens to be Dino's it won't affect anything and then you know you have Dino's for sure

Should be a win win

That's not a bad idea. There could easily be a mix of dinos and cyano too.

If it does turn out to be dinos, H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) dosing seems to be the strongest offense, and since you don't have many corals you don't have to worry much about irritating/browning the corals.

[5gluder]

Thanks for the suggestions, i'll give the chemi clean a try first and see how it goes.

[Craigdillman]

Yup just follow the directions good and shouldn't have any problems

I leave my skimmer running and just leave the plug undone sour flows back into the sump so you get lots of airation during the treatment

[iamfrontosa]

Personally I would run GFO less or stop for time being. I would also try to raise NO3 a little either by adding NO3 or feed more.

I think the problem is your PO4 >>> NO3, that's why you have cyno outbreak.

[iamfrontosa]

Personally I would run GFO less or stop for time being. I would also try to raise NO3 a little either by adding NO3 or feed more.

I think the problem is your PO4 >>> NO3, that's why you have cyno outbreak.

I had the same problem, then I read up on the Redfield ratio. Worked like a charm for me.

[Jennc]

That looks like dinoflagellates. Once it takes hold of your tank, it is very challenging to get rid of. I had a nasty case of it that cost me a few corals and almost killed my gorgonian. I was able to get rid of it by doing a total tank blackout for 4 days along with daily water changes during the blackout and for 2 weeks after.

[5gluder]

Update, since i have no corals left now i decided to do a full blackout for 7 days. No water changes during this period and reduced feeding amounts, the last 2 days(Aug 12) i also added chemi clean. On Sunday i turned the lights back on, the algae receded. On Monday i noticed that it already started to regrow, it looks similar to this:
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm197/g5luder1/c0df437f-4a95-4e1f-b835-c2c13a3af8ce_zpskvrjuyjy.jpg (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/g5luder1/media/c0df437f-4a95-4e1f-b835-c2c13a3af8ce_zpskvrjuyjy.jpg.html)

I also gave a sample to a friend yesterday to look under a microscope and he said it looks like Dino. So i guess my next step is now trying H202 during a blackout if that doesn't work look at using metro. I read Jennc comments but i have also read conflicting comments stating no water changes should be done during treatment.

I'm not familiar with the Redfield ratio, i'll have to read up on that. I did read that increasing No3 does play a role as well.

[Jennc]

I didn't use any chemicals or special treatments while trying to rid my tank of dino. Having the tank blacked out and the water changes was all it took. Once I had it under control, I pulled all the equipment and thoroughly cleaned it and then replaced all the media. I do run a UV sterilizer, which probably helped as well. Good luck!

[Myka]

Update, since i have no corals left now i decided to do a full blackout for 7 days. No water changes during this period and reduced feeding amounts, the last 2 days(Aug 12) i also added chemi clean. On Sunday i turned the lights back on, the algae receded. On Monday i noticed that it already started to regrow, it looks similar to this:
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm197/g5luder1/c0df437f-4a95-4e1f-b835-c2c13a3af8ce_zpskvrjuyjy.jpg (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/g5luder1/media/c0df437f-4a95-4e1f-b835-c2c13a3af8ce_zpskvrjuyjy.jpg.html)

I also gave a sample to a friend yesterday to look under a microscope and he said it looks like Dino. So i guess my next step is now trying H202 during a blackout if that doesn't work look at using metro. I read Jennc comments but i have also read conflicting comments stating no water changes should be done during treatment.

I'm not familiar with the Redfield ratio, i'll have to read up on that. I did read that increasing No3 does play a role as well.
Bummer. Good luck. H2O2 usually takes awhile too.

[Myka]

How goes the battle?

[5gluder]

Funny, I just turned the lights back on today. So far looks nice and clean but will have to see how the next couple days go. I been doing h202 at 1ml per display tank gallon. I'm hoping this takes care of it, really want to start adding some zoas.

[5gluder]

So the Dino returned :cry: I'm continuing to dose with H020, also removed as much sand as possible as it is always starting up on the sandbed first. I turned off the lights again for 3 days and did a 60% water change.

Not sure if i should bother trying metro or dino-x or just teardown everything and start over?

[iamfrontosa]

What light are you using? If T5, maybe try switching out old bulbs.
Maybe reduce photo period or raise the light higher.

[5gluder]

Hey i'm using a 32" EverGrow IT2080. I reduced the photo period to 6 hours a day. I could shorten it more?

What light are you using? If T5, maybe try switching out old bulbs.
Maybe reduce photo period or raise the light higher.