plumbing help!

[ashr]

Hey all

I am about to buy all my parts for me animal bean over flow. I have 1" slip/slip bulk heads all read and two 3/4 slip/slip for my returns.

So far I am needing a 1" Gate Valve. slip/slip or threaded. Not sure what would be best.

Also I am needing a ball valve or a True double union ball.

Now this is where I am stuck.. Not sure what other major parts I will need.. Maybe check valves?

Any help would be great

Thanks

[target]

Here's a pic of the plumbing for my bean animal over flow. Used a knife valve, slip/slip but added unions on both sides. All my overflow piping is 1" bulkheads into 1-1/2" piping. I also added ball valves with unions on each return. My return lines are 1" into a 1" bulkhead then reduced to 3/4" locline. I added a check valve right at the pump on the return and get no back siphon from the DT into the sump.

[ashr]

Awesome, thanks for the pictures!

Did you use slip/slip or threaded?

[IanWR]

Are you not concerned with the check valve failing? I didn't use them when I did my plumbing since I had read so much about detritus/sponges/snails/worms getting in and causing the check valve to malfunction. Perhaps check valve technology has changed since I did my research?

[target]

Awesome, thanks for the pictures!

Did you use slip/slip or threaded?

Everything outside the tank except for the caps on the top of the down pipes is slip/slip. Inside the tank the elbows are threaded as well as the locline. I used unions to make sure I can disassemble as needed.

Are you not concerned with the check valve failing? I didn't use them when I did my plumbing since I had read so much about detritus/sponges/snails/worms getting in and causing the check valve to malfunction. Perhaps check valve technology has changed since I did my research?

The check valve I got has no metal so nothing to rust and fail. I also have a screen on the pump intake which should prevent any critters from getting in there. Plus, I do have room in the sump in case it did fail and the tank siphoned down to the return level. I was maybe a little paranoid and tried to double up safety features where I could.

[CM125]

I use threaded, but slip with unions works too. I just like that I can change my setup later to anything without rebuying a $30 valve. X2 on the not using check valves, even the plastic ones gum up, not worth it IMO.

[ashr]

I am also thinking of running either a Eheim 1262 or 1260 for my return pump.

1" hose from the pump to a ball valve then to a 3/4 hose and into my tank

Thoughts on how this should work? I want to split the pump with a T to return to but returns. (return is 3/4)

[SeaHorse_Fanatic]

"return to but returns" makes no sense. Do you mean "both" not "but"?

[CM125]

I am also thinking of running either a Eheim 1262 or 1260 for my return pump.

1" hose from the pump to a ball valve then to a 3/4 hose and into my tank

Thoughts on how this should work? I want to split the pump with a T to return to but returns. (return is 3/4)

You have 2 returns that are 3/4s and you want to go from 1' and split into the 2?

[ashr]

Sorry. It was late haha. Yes I want to use a single pump to return flow to both returns on the tank. The return hole is 3/4 and so is the outlet on the pump. Is it worth switching the pump outlet to 1'' and run a 1'' pipe to a ball valve and then into a smaller 3/4 pipe to connect to my returns. Or would it be better to run 3/4 all the way.

[CM125]

Sorry. It was late haha. Yes I want to use a single pump to return flow to both returns on the tank. The return hole is 3/4 and so is the outlet on the pump. Is it worth switching the pump outlet to 1'' and run a 1'' pipe to a ball valve and then into a smaller 3/4 pipe to connect to my returns. Or would it be better to run 3/4 all the way.

I cant see a noticeable advantage to using 1" if your pump output is only 3/4". but it wouldn't hurt anything

[ashr]

Thanks!

I am also trying to figure out what return pump to buy. I am running a bean animal with a coast/coast over flow. 1" drains.
I am looking at:

Fluval Sea SP2
Quiet One Pro 4000
EHEIM 1260 or 1262


I have all read great stuff about these pumps. The SP2 and Eheim are pretty high cost and then Pro 4000 is a lot cheaper. Any thoughts on these?

Thanks

[CM125]

I havent tried the fluval but my quiet one is awesome. thats my recommendation.
My eheim is good but it makes a weird noise on start up. not a huge deal but thats it really. The quiet one is low power too

[ashr]

I havent tried the fluval but my quiet one is awesome. thats my recommendation.
My eheim is good but it makes a weird noise on start up. not a huge deal but thats it really. The quiet one is low power too

I am leaning towards the Q One 4000. The head height GPH is still good. The SP2 loses a lot of GPH even at 4.5 feet.. hmmm

[mikellini]

Check out Sicce Syncra... I'm running a 3.0, it's virtually silent, and I bought it for $80 on amazon (bout half price).

[Ulmo]

Are you not concerned with the check valve failing? I didn't use them when I did my plumbing since I had read so much about detritus/sponges/snails/worms getting in and causing the check valve to malfunction. Perhaps check valve technology has changed since I did my research?
I use a transparent true union check valve, so I can easily monitor its condition/performance and maintain it as necessary. I also run an Fluval SP4 wide open, so it would take one determined critter to get down to the check valve. Basic setup before some tuning/modifications.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z5Hrqvbu88Y/U_lhIArmEMI/AAAAAAAAHAE/Hy69yqDE-Ro/w1355-h903-no/IMG_4442.JPG

[target]

Forgot to mention, my check valve is also transparent so easy to see if it's getting gummed up.

[CM125]

how do you find tuning the drains with ball valves?

[Ulmo]

how do you find tuning the drains with ball valves?
They are precise enough for me. Gate valves would be a nice to have, but not a need.