New future reefer!

[shiftline]

Hey guys. I'm a planted freshwater guy who's is going to try his hand in salt


I know bigger is better and easier. However I have a 12g fluval edge that I'm going to turn into a nano reef. Should be a fun project

Lots of reading and learning!

[mrhasan]

Since you are planted tank guy, you can easily do a saltwater iwagumi. GSP as the grass and live rock as the various stone structure :mrgreen:

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My newest planted tank (ironically in a marine tank)
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/07/a7e4e991ee171cc6bf6a31be8b2c3a7b.jpg

For the new reef tank I'm going take down a fluval edge 12g and convert it to salt. Just ordered a led light for it. Just debating if I should make a little sump in the back column with a mini skimmer or just keep up on water changes
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/07/27d09a2b234ee3cf0c4e411ed97a9c9f.jpg

[andestang]

I know bigger is better and easier.
Welcome to the board !
Not really the case anymore, bigger is just a lot more cash and a big money pit with disappointment if things don't work out for you in the end. Learn the ropes with minimal investment to see if this hobby is for you and I'm not suggesting cheeping out with you gear or materials. There's lots of smaller set-ups here and on other boards that are very successful . Have fun !

[shiftline]

Awesome. Thanks for the encouragement!

I went a little overkill with the led's with 36w on a 12g. But I can always dim it down and have room for expansion on corals later

Still debating what to do for my stocking.
Lots of love rock and coral and prob a fire Shrinp. Maybe goby and a fish. I don't want to overdue the bioload as I'm sure that is pushing it for a 12g

Do you think it's worth doing a mini sump or skimmer or are weekly to bi weekly water changes enough?

Let me know if you have any suggestions!

[Craigdillman]

For something that small i'd skip the skimmer since water changes are so easy on little tanks, you could do a high % water change every week and that will take out way more than a skimmer could ever do

Even tho smaller tanks are "harder" to keep all it is, is that the changes happen faster compared to a bigger tank, Nice thing is tho about smaller tanks is that ability to do good % water changes say 50% is only like 5gallons totally manageable. Keeps the need for dosing and running other stuff cause the WC will replenish all is needed for parameters

For the back if I were you you could get some filter floss and maybe a bag of carbon ( and GFO if needed) or chemi-clean works good in little tanks

[shiftline]

So filter floss is for mechanical filtration. Do I need carbon in the tank?

I have a RO system that has 2 carbon filters so it should take a lot out of the water.

For salt I was thinking of going with the reef version of instant ocean reef crystals since phosphates and has calcium nase trace elements to keep corals happy

I generally avoids additives and extra chemicals if I can since I think knit just buffers with your water more and could potentially add to swings I parameters. (That being said I have an auto Dosser I built for a planted task if needed)

Do u think I would still need gfp to get rid of phosphates with the reef crystals? Aka does it come from things in the aquarium of just the water?

[Craigdillman]

Reef crystals is not needed if you dont want, most use standard IO salt you won't have a big calcium alk demand at the start specially in a 12g

Phosphates are primarily introduced by feeding and specially overfeeding and in a small tank this will be your enemy also some leach from rocks or sand\but it isn't added in your salt


As for the GFO and Carbon

Test your phosphates and it will tell you if you need gfo or not ( wc will help with p04 )

And Im an advocate for carbon have ran it in all my tanks others dont ( helps take out organics and the "yellowing" agents in the water and generally gives you clear water, But it is by no means necessary

[shiftline]

I'll get a phosphate test kit to be safe! aside from p04 causing algae.. I'm assuming light is the other enemy. The tank will be out of direct sunlight and ran of led's.

I just ordered an custom setup (overkill but dimmable so I can fine tune it later)
36 Watt System
3x 10000k-12000k LEDs
4x Royal blue LEDs
2x Blue Leds
2x violet
1x Ultra violet

I have no idea what intensity I will need to run it at however some corals require very high par and I didn't want t to limit my self!

How many hours per day is "safe" to run the lights at with out encouraging algae? 8h? If I run the blue moon lights on low for say 2h will this affect algae or is it fairly safe?

[Craigdillman]

Nice looks good ! I run my lights 12 hours a day some do 8 some do 10 mostly up to you, if you dont have the nutrients for algae it won't grow id say thats more important than light time

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So RODI and reef salt only.. Don't over feed. And I should be good?! Excellent!

I have 2x koralia evolution 425gph powerheads from a previous freshwater tank however I think 1 along with the aqua clear hob should be plenty for a 12g tank (hopefully not to much!)

I bought a bag of live sand and will be getting live rock in a few weeks when another reefer gets back into town. That should make a pretty quick cycle. I'll probably let the tank age for a few weeks before I add any fish or shrimp... Am I fairly safe to add se corals right away?

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/07/36de357e5ba1ec0834e08ed2490276d0.jpg

My only other quest is finding a hidden heater. I have heard of some putting them in the hang on back filters if I can find a short one

For corals is there any recommend ones that aren't to sensitive and have lots of vibrant colors with led's?

[Craigdillman]

Yup that sounds good, I sense some rushing on your part and I'll be the first to say nothing good happens fast so take your time :)

I'd suggest researching the inital cycle of the reef tank but here's a crash course

With the live sand and live rock you should cycle quicky but you still will need to cycle. Only way to know you are cycling and that the cycle is over is to test for

Ammonia
Nitrite
Nitrate

If you have done some reading on the cycle then you know that first the ammonia will spike then nitrite and finally nitrate as the benificial bacteria become established

So as soon as you test for no ammonia (toxic for fish and corals) and no nitrites( proving your cycle is over ) then your free to add livestock most start with some clean up crew ( crabs snails ex) then some coral or fish is ok

[shiftline]

Okay thanks! I guess I'm still getting over the planted tank mind set where plants and what not could be in whole cycling :). Slow and steady it is :)