Ca reactor feed

[smokinreefer]

what do you guys use to feed your reactor?
i have used 2 different small powerheads and they seem to clog and jam up very easily which leads to fluctuating drop rates.

any ideas to solve my problem??

thanks

[Doug]

What are they plugging on. Mine were always clean. I tried small ones, like the little pond pump thingys. Not very good and my effluent rate was soon changing.

The best I used was a Hagen 301 model.

[SuperFudge]

Shao,

You can tap your main pumps feed line,but i couldnt recommend it if you are using ball valves anywhere else in the output line,it ends up being the same story if you ever adjust these valves.It works well otherwise,and saves another plug for other goodies ;) .

[titus]

Hello,

I'd say gravity feed if possible.

Titus

[smokinreefer]

hey guys,

so marc,
my return lines are 1"...so you mean "T" it off and reduce it to 1/4" to feed the reactor? i guess i would need a valve on the line as well to control the feed into the reactor too?

titus,
how do you propose that? i have 1.5" drains...i cant really visualize how to take a feed from that into a 1/4" line to feed the reactor. could you elaborate please?

also any pictures/diagrams or plans that anyone can post to help me visualize any of these options would be greatly appreciated.

TIA

[StirCrazy]

Originally posted by smokinreefer:
hey guys,

how do you propose that? i have 1.5" drains...i cant really visualize how to take a feed from that into a 1/4" line to feed the reactor. could you elaborate please?

TIA<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">if you can shut down for a bit.. you need to drill a hole and tap it with a 1/4" NPT so it will accept a 1/4 threaded pip to 1/4" compression adapter.. if you can find the adapter with a ball valve that would be better.

Steve

[SuperFudge]

Originally posted by smokinreefer:
hey guys,

so marc,
my return lines are 1"...so you mean "T" it off and reduce it to 1/4" to feed the reactor? i guess i would need a valve on the line as well to control the feed into the reactor too?

TIA<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well you can tee off and do this,but for 15 bucks you can buy the tap,and just tap into a coupler or fitting you already have inline.
Either will work,but
tapping only takes a few minutes,rather than gluing new fittings and such.
Make sure your not tapping just the pipe wall,it is too thin walled to get a good thread,get a coupler with the pipe already glued in it.

You usually wont need to put a valve in there before the reactor,as you have a valve on your effluent output.
also the ends of the lines to the tank are free flowing,so there is not huge pressures involved.
Itll just pressurize your reactor a little more.

But before you do... you dont have those 1" lines tee`d off anywhere else do you ?...like a skimmer or multiple tank outlets ?

[smokinreefer]

marc,
i have a mag12 that is run with 1" tubing that leads to the returns. from the tubing it connect to 1" pvc(behind the tank) that "T"s into 2 returns at the top of the tank.
does it sound like it is doable?

[fishboy]

Here's a pic of how I set up my feed. I'm running a mag 12 with 1" tubing as well. The 1/4 NPT tap is cheap and can be used for other projects. The line is 1/4" OD and the valve is for a underground sprinkler system(bought at Homedepot). There is some risk of cracking the pvc when you tap it so be carefull and/or have some weldon 16 handy.

http://www.dataonly.net/images/feed.jpg

[smokinreefer]

hmmm....is there any way to tap into flexible tubing??
the only accessable tubing from my return pump is 1" pvc flexable tubing...not pvc pipe.

any ideas.

[Delphinus]

Marc,

But before you do... you dont have those 1" lines tee`d off anywhere else do you ?...like a skimmer or multiple tank outlets ?


I don't understand. What difference does having other T's (skimmer) or multiple tank outlets on the return line make, what pitfalls are there if you're T-ing off for the reactor?

If it's a case of the ball valves seizing because of calcium buildup ... wouldn't this happen anyways if the reactor was fed from somewhere else .. ?

:confused:

[SuperFudge]

Tony,

If there are any other ballvalves in the line that is being used for the reactor feed say,to a skimmer,the pressure to your reactor changes when they are adjusted.....this slows or increases both your bubble rate and effluent rate.
The more tee`s that are used,the worse it gets.

Shao`s original complaint was that his effluent rates were inconsistant,and i didnt want him to end up with the same problem.

Shao,sounds like you dont have any PVC fittings other than barb fittings on there?
Do You have another pump running the skimmer ?

[ 25 September 2002, 16:41: Message edited by: Superfudge ]

[smokinreefer]

i sure do....
but it is on the other side of the sump!!
hahahahha.

actually...i didnt notice, but there are a couple pvc adapters on the output of the return pump before it gets to the hose barb. i should be able to put the tap on there.

i will try to get a pic of it posted soon so you can tell me if it will be OK or not.

also, where do i get the tap from?...will HD have it?

thanks

[Shadetree]

Shao,

There is a fitting you can buy that has 1" hose barbs on each side with a 3/4" threaded input on a right angle (making look like a T) I have one on my return and use this to feed my reactor. All you have to do is cut the 1" flex insert the two barbs of the T and then using the exact same fittings that Fishboy has you can hook up to the reactor.

Scott

[smokinreefer]

cool,
thanks scott.
youve returned to join the rest of the living!
hows it goin man? been a long time since i've talked to ya.

[titus]

Hello,

You don't tap the feed off the overflow due to bubbles entering into the reactor. Also another danger is if power goes and your reactor would loose prime, when the overflow stops.

What you do is just drop the feedline into say... 2" - 3" below your display's water line and the water will just flow (by gravity) into the reactor (which is assumed to be placed below the display).

Titus

[stephane]

yes but if the power fail for a couple of houre when you not there did you have someting to stop the water before the tank empty on the floor?

I know it is 2-3 inch from the water suface but 2-3 inch is a lot of water in my 130 gal

[titus]

Hello,

Yes it is possible. And I should have mentioned this. But if power goes out, your pump is no longer actively pushing water out of the effluent. Given the small orifice on the drip valve, the flow will be significantly reduced. Further, a proper sump should have enough capacity to handle the extra inflow. But yes one has to be careful on this so adjust the height of the intake appropriately.

Titus

[smokinreefer]

:confused:
ok, i went to HD and found the fitting that shadetree was talking about and i found a fitting that fishboy is using, but nothing to connect the 2.
i even asked the dude there to help me rig something, and we couldnt, atleast not unless we used brass.

so where can i get these parts?? or where can i get this tap from?

thanks again.

[Delphinus]

Can you try a water filtration store or a specialized plumbing outfit? Here in Calgary a bunch of us shop for miscellaneous bits like that at a Pool pump place (it's called Western Pool & Spa, or Western Pool & Pump, or something ..... I dunno for sure). If you need to call around, ask if they have "John Guest fittings." Even if the piece you need isn't a "John Guest" fitting, odds are that if they have those, then they likely also have the piece you are looking for.

HTH!

[JoJo]

Hey Shao,

If the T fittng you bought has a 3/4" threaded o/p, you can buy a fitting at HD, in the irrigation section. The i/p is threaded 3/4" designed to screw onto bibs normally for gardening hoses. The o/p is a compression fitting for 1/4" irrigation tubing. Ace uses this setup to feed his TWP. If you need some tubing, let him know.
Ps. This fitting is black in color and comes in a card board backed clear plastic package. It can be found in the irrigation section next to the pvc fittings, hanging on the rack, at the HD (Henning and Gilmore BBY). It looks similar to the female fitting on a gardening hose with a cone added.

HTH

Danny

[smokinreefer]

what???
you got to be kidding me!
thats the HD i went to, and just to be sure i didnt miss anything i even asked the guy to help rig somethin up for me...oh well i guess i will go by again and take a closer look.
thanks for the info tho'

[JoJo]

Hey Shao,

The fitting looks something like this
http://members.shaw.ca/dleung67/compression.gif

[ 30 September 2002, 19:10: Message edited by: JoJo ]

[fishboy]

I agree with delphinus, take the parts to a proper plumbing supply store (or a hot tub shop or RV supply shop) and they should be able to set you up with something that will work. HD has a very limited supply of "non-standard" parts. I don't know Burnaby though so I can't sugest a store.

[smokinreefer]

thanks for all the input guys.
i gave HD one more shot and i came out victorious.
my sump return is now "t"ed and is now feeding the reactor!

[JoJo]

Good to hear!!

So, what fitting did you ended up getting? Just curious.

[smokinreefer]

i got the 1"x1"x3/4"threaded "t"
where the "t" connects to a 3/4>1/2" reducer
which connects to the 1/2>1/4 compression adapter...which is the 1 you pointed out.
:D

[JoJo]

Glad that You got the feed to the reactor working!!!
I guess the 3/4">1/4" compression fitting is out of stock, otherwise, you could have done it without the reducer.