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Baker
05-23-2014, 02:00 PM
So I just started up my new frag tank a couple/few weeks ago and unfortunately it was a rush job that required me to not allow my tank to cycle and take a chance that it wouldnt have one. I used alot of good LR and everything seems to be going well. The only problem was, my nitrates were a little high. Around 40ppm. Ive never really been one to worry about chemistry as I do enough water changes and I feel as though I can tell by looking at the coral if anything is off. Anyways, I came across this product called Nitra-Guard bio cubes. I thought I'd give it a shot and I have to say I am impressed. My nitrates went from 40ppm down to 5-10ppm in about 4 days. I had been recommended using vinegar/vodka dosing but wanted another solution as the tank is brand new and my luck i'd nuke my tank. Anyone else tried this product? What do you do to lower nitrates?

FishyFishy!
05-23-2014, 03:20 PM
Since nitrates are generally only in your water column, the best thing to do is find out where they are coming from, eliminate the source, and do large water changes if you don't already have coral in the tank. If you already have livestock in the tank, then frequent smaller water changes will help. In your case of a new tank, I think this is the best option for you, as you don't have other factors like under gravel filters, bioballs, old ass filter pads or overfeeding to contend with.

Other than that, you can try bio-pellets. These seem to be working on many peoples tanks, but I personally think they are a bandaid fix for another issue in the tank. They can also do a lot of harm if used incorrectly.

Or you can use the proven methods of vodka/vinegar dosing, but at this stage of the game I would stick to keeping it simple with regular water changes.

FishyFishy!
05-23-2014, 03:29 PM
I should add, that trace nitrates aren't necessarily a bad thing, but the two things that come in the transition into nitrates are what can nuke a tank - Ammonia and Nitrite. You should test for these just in case.

Baker
05-23-2014, 03:43 PM
I havent tested for either of those but should probably do that just incase. I doubt there are any as everything is looking very healthy. The only other thing I have tested for is phosphates and it was down at .4 ppm. I havent done any WC's yet as I wanted to build a bit of bacteria before I do so. Probably do one next week just to replenish. I have used a bit of zeobak but only 6 drops over the week. This could be part of it as well. I have read a bit about vodka dosing and I read that this shouldnt be used on a new tank. Im just going to keep it simple at this point.

reefwars
05-23-2014, 05:03 PM
I havent tested for either of those but should probably do that just incase. I doubt there are any as everything is looking very healthy. The only other thing I have tested for is phosphates and it was down at .4 ppm. I havent done any WC's yet as I wanted to build a bit of bacteria before I do so. Probably do one next week just to replenish. I have used a bit of zeobak but only 6 drops over the week. This could be part of it as well. I have read a bit about vodka dosing and I read that this shouldnt be used on a new tank. Im just going to keep it simple at this point.

your waterchanges wont really remove bacteria ,not the ones your looking to expand on anyways, the bacterias your looking for only resides on solid surfaces like substrates, rocks , etc. and is rarely found in the water column.

products like the one you used , carbon dosing , pellets etc dont bind nitrates or phosphates, they fuel bacteria which can then be skimmed out or removed via polyfibre,foam, etc. theres alot of ways to approach this but most use the same basics.

i dont think carbon dosing is a bandaid fix at all , fact is the bacteria is doing its job in all systems regardless and is a natural process.

hunggi74
05-23-2014, 05:47 PM
I've been using Nitra-Guard as well for around two months now. My nitrates were high 50+ppm when I started using it. Now I'm down to 2.5-5ppm. I used the bomb method in my sump. Put it in there two months ago and haven't had to mess with it at all. Very impressed. Does anyone know when the cubes should be changed out? I'd like to be more proactive now rather than wait until I see the nitrate levels climb back up before reacting.

Baker
05-24-2014, 01:52 PM
So woke up this morning and tested again,
Ammonia = 0
Nitrite = 0
Nitrate = 5
In 5 days this stuff brought it right down. My understanding is that when it starts to go up, thats when you change it. Im sure it doesnt matter if you change it before it runs out. Im pretty impressed.

rzadun
05-24-2014, 03:00 PM
where did you get the nitre guard?

hunggi74
05-24-2014, 05:39 PM
So woke up this morning and tested again,
Ammonia = 0
Nitrite = 0
Nitrate = 5
In 5 days this stuff brought it right down. My understanding is that when it starts to go up, thats when you change it. Im sure it doesnt matter if you change it before it runs out. Im pretty impressed.

I believe it's because I'm running GFO that reduces my po4 that my nitrates won't go down anymore. I'm also liking the fact that this way of reducing nitrates didn't set off any cyano outbreaks in my tank. I got mine from J&L.

Money pit
05-26-2014, 01:32 AM
Is Nitra guard made of the same stuff as Bio pellets ? Just wondering if pellets could be ran effectively the same way.

Money pit
05-26-2014, 03:08 AM
Is Nitra guard made of the same stuff as Bio pellets ? Just wondering if pellets could be ran effectively the same way.

Never mind google was my friend.