Lets see those QT tanks

[mrhasan]

Well I woke up to two dead chromis due to another (possibly 3rd till now!) ich breakdown. Don't really know what happened since everyone was fine and eating like pigs and I fed them what many would say "extremely" generously. Even I used occasional selcon. Really ****ed me off this time.

Anyway, this boxing day, I am getting QT tank setup (and the ATI dimmable fixture :razz:). Would love to get some idea about how reefers run QT. Permanent qt or temporary qt? I will probably run permanent since I will keep on adding fishes every two months till the tank is stocked.

Worked really hard to get the tank to the point of being "sterile of ich" and I was kinda of happy when I saw no ich outbreak when my 1st clownfish was got to the point of no eating and died. Added a 2nd clownfish which was healthy and was in the LFS for a really long time and it was perfectly all right but I started noticing white spots on chromis and the trigger (initially through they were just dusts because of the places they sleep) and now the outbreak. :cry:

[BuschWacker]

i started a post similar to this last week. didnt really go very far, only got two replies. hopefully you can do better. i would like to do the exact same thing. look for a good deal on boxing day for something smaller, that i can keep running in a back room until its needed. would also like to know the basics that need to be in it. tagging along. :pop2:

[Reef Pilot]

Quarantine for new fish: After a few newbie hard lessons in the beginning, I set up a QT for new fish. Initially, this tank was connected as a refugium to my sump, and then disconnected when in use as a QT. I use the hyposalinity routine, and have had great success with acclimating new fish including some more finicky Butterfly fish such as Copperbands and Pearlscales. The entire QT process usually takes 2 or 3 months for me. Here is a good article on the benefits of hypo.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/6/fish

I have always had a permanent QT with a canister filter, and I now keep some live rock in there as well. It is still multi purpose, and I QT some corals in there too. And I use it as an overflow frag tank, when I run out of room in my DT frag rack. I use water from my DT water changes, so no salt costs.

Pretty simple set-up actually. But the key is permanent. Most failures happen because of new set-ups (no stable nitrogen cycle), and the misuse of copper or other chemicals. I have had 100% success rate, when I used hypo. You can also use Prazipro at the beginning before you lower the salinity if you suspect internal parasites. Then after a few days, start the RODI water changes to lower the salinity to 1.009. And to raise, just use the DT tank water from water changes.

[mandyplo]

Yea I learned this way too :(
Lost almost all of my stock and I finally decided to get a QT... SOMEHOW?!?!! Still got ich in my tank right now... My fish seem to be healthy enough how ever to fight it off and I honestly have NO idea how it got back in my tank I took every precaution and still.... ugh

Anyways, I ran my tank without fish for 12 weeks.
I had fish in quarantine after the 12 week period, and treated them in a 20 gallon quarantine tank bare bottom nothing in it but PVC tubing, and a filter with only filter floss.
I treat all of my new fish with copper, specifically seachem Cupramine for 18 days in quarantine.
I mean I THOUGHT I was doing it right? I haven't lost any fish but every once in a while I do see my clown and tang with the occasional break out of 1-5 white spots... then I see nothing again for a while... Like I said I haven't lost anyone, but my fish DO flash so I know something is irritating them whether those white spots are ich or not.
They haven't stopped eating or anything...
Considering going 12 weeks again with all of my fish in quarantine and my display empty...
Really p***** I can't seem to get rid of this bloody parasite.

[mrhasan]

i started a post similar to this last week. didnt really go very far, only got two replies. hopefully you can do better. i would like to do the exact same thing. look for a good deal on boxing day for something smaller, that i can keep running in a back room until its needed. would also like to know the basics that need to be in it. tagging along. :pop2:

Don't worry; I am good at grabbing people's attention :lol:

Problem is I don't have the required space for something big but can still try to accommodate something.

[darkreef]

Ekkk! I forgot to dip (ran out) my frags will my fish get it ?!

[BuschWacker]

Don't worry; I am good at grabbing people's attention :lol:

Problem is I don't have the required space for something big but can still try to accommodate something.

Umm ya, aahh, I never noticed. I was thinking of getting one of those starter kits that come with lights, filters, heaters, etc. should be able to find one for under a hundred bucks.

[mrhasan]

Ekkk! I forgot to dip (ran out) my frags will my fish get it ?!

Don't think that would be an issue. :smile:

[Reef Pilot]

Don't think that would be an issue. :smile:
I wouldn't be too sure about that. I have read of others that got ich in their tanks, when they hadn't added any new fish for a long time, and it happened after adding corals.

To be safe, I double dip my corals, first with the dip solution and then rinse again in tank water before adding to my display tank. If for some reason, I have to keep the old plug or rock with the new frag, then I also QT it for a week or so, and then double dip a second time before adding to my DT. The other reason, of course, is to try and prevent AEFW from getting into my DT. So far, so good, but AEFW (and other pests) are actually my greatest fear, not Ich, when it comes to corals.

[mrhasan]

I wouldn't be too sure about that. I have read of others that got ich in their tanks, when they hadn't added any new fish for a long time, and it happened after adding corals.

To be safe, I double dip my corals, first with the dip solution and then rinse again in tank water before adding to my display tank. If for some reason, I have to keep the old plug or rock with the new frag, then I also QT it for a week or so, and then double dip a second time before adding to my DT. The other reason, of course, is to try and prevent AEFW from getting into my DT. So far, so good, but AEFW (and other pests) are actually my greatest fear, not Ich, when it comes to corals.

True that. Dipping is something that should be religiously practiced anyhow.

[BackPackHunter]

When I finally get my tank set up, I'm going to set up a 75g or 90g QT tank
always running, its going to have 2 dividers, that are removable,
(going to silicone 1/2" acrylic strips in the aquarium to the bottom and back and front, so i can slide in different peaces of drilled out acrylic 3/8 thick to divide ... will have different peaces with different size holes depending on the size of fish being QT) and it will let me divide my tank into 1/3 or 1/2... going to be a Bare Bottom, with lid, thats running a 4 bulb Compact Fluorescent for light(because I saved it from a old aquarium), Im going to run 2 Fluval 306 canisters, with hang on skimmer. I will have fake rock in the tank for them to hind in and be happy while they are getting med's if any, (then removed and bleached) after im happy there, I will be removing all meds with carbon, then adding live rock that I will be keeping in my sump, will also be keeping spare foam filters in the sump for bio filtering,

Can anyone add to that? maybe I've over looked something?

I think its cheep insurance to have a good QT tank

The size of the QT tank should reflect on the size of the display tank, and the fish you intend on QT,to keep stress low

My above tank will let me QT 1-3, or a group of schooling fish depending on what fish is on the list to be added next...

[Reef Pilot]

When I finally get my tank set up, I'm going to set up a 75g or 90g QT tank

That is pretty large. Depends on what size fish you want to QT, I guess. Mine is only 30g, but I usually only buy a few fish at a time, and no really large ones. It is not intended as a hospital tank to transfer fish out of my DT, but strictly as a prevention against disease for new fish.

I also have a few cut pieces of 3" PVC pipes for them to hide in. They seem to like that.

Not sure why you want a 2nd canister filter. Or a skimmer. Because you will be doing some major water changes (with hypo), it never gets a chance to build up a lot of nutrients for the length of the QT period.

And I wouldn't be using any meds, except Prazipro. Keeping it simple, but effective, is what matters.

[BackPackHunter]

That is pretty large. Depends on what size fish you want to QT, I guess. Mine is only 30g, but I usually only buy a few fish at a time, and no really large ones. It is not intended as a hospital tank to transfer fish out of my DT, but strictly as a prevention against disease for new fish.

I also have a few cut pieces of 3" PVC pipes for them to hide in. They seem to like that.

Not sure why you want a 2nd canister filter. Or a skimmer. Because you will be doing some major water changes (with hypo), it never gets a chance to build up a lot of nutrients for the length of the QT period.

And I wouldn't be using any meds, except Prazipro. Keeping it simple, but effective, is what matters.




The size of the QT tank should reflect on the size of the display tank, and the fish you intend on QT,to keep stress low



my display is going to be 6'x3'x3'
so in the QT tank will be holding large angels and tangs, and want them to be happy with little stress

the 2 canisters are to move lots of water, again keeping the fish happy
i could just use power heads but i like the extra filtering....

the skimmer is incase of work, I might get called out for a week...
and the less my wife has to do the happier everyone will be...
Happy wife happy life

if the tanks start to become more work for her then feeding, im going to hear about it...

[mrhasan]

Quarantine for new fish: After a few newbie hard lessons in the beginning, I set up a QT for new fish. Initially, this tank was connected as a refugium to my sump, and then disconnected when in use as a QT. I use the hyposalinity routine, and have had great success with acclimating new fish including some more finicky Butterfly fish such as Copperbands and Pearlscales. The entire QT process usually takes 2 or 3 months for me. Here is a good article on the benefits of hypo.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/6/fish

I have always had a permanent QT with a canister filter, and I now keep some live rock in there as well. It is still multi purpose, and I QT some corals in there too. And I use it as an overflow frag tank, when I run out of room in my DT frag rack. I use water from my DT water changes, so no salt costs.

Pretty simple set-up actually. But the key is permanent. Most failures happen because of new set-ups (no stable nitrogen cycle), and the misuse of copper or other chemicals. I have had 100% success rate, when I used hypo. You can also use Prazipro at the beginning before you lower the salinity if you suspect internal parasites. Then after a few days, start the RODI water changes to lower the salinity to 1.009. And to raise, just use the DT tank water from water changes.

Yea I learned this way too :(
Lost almost all of my stock and I finally decided to get a QT... SOMEHOW?!?!! Still got ich in my tank right now... My fish seem to be healthy enough how ever to fight it off and I honestly have NO idea how it got back in my tank I took every precaution and still.... ugh

Anyways, I ran my tank without fish for 12 weeks.
I had fish in quarantine after the 12 week period, and treated them in a 20 gallon quarantine tank bare bottom nothing in it but PVC tubing, and a filter with only filter floss.
I treat all of my new fish with copper, specifically seachem Cupramine for 18 days in quarantine.
I mean I THOUGHT I was doing it right? I haven't lost any fish but every once in a while I do see my clown and tang with the occasional break out of 1-5 white spots... then I see nothing again for a while... Like I said I haven't lost anyone, but my fish DO flash so I know something is irritating them whether those white spots are ich or not.
They haven't stopped eating or anything...
Considering going 12 weeks again with all of my fish in quarantine and my display empty...
Really p***** I can't seem to get rid of this bloody parasite.

Thanks for the inputs. :)

[gregzz4]

You can make your's as simple as a tank, heater, filter and cheap canopy. $100 would cover it used easily

I kept mine running until I finished buying fish and kept new filter foam blocks in my sump (thanks Brad) for a month or more before use
Whenever I populated the QT, I added more blocks to the sump as I toss the used ones

To answer your initial question Raied, here's mine;
It's a 20g with a 15w freshwater bulb (low intensity is best for a QT) and an eggcrate top. The front half of the crate is cut and removable for arm access. I have had wrasses jump through it so you may be better off with a stock-style canopy
I use a 100w Jager and an Aquaclear 50
And a Seachem Ammo Alert badge
That's all you'd need

I used to keep my tank bare bottom, but it currently has tile as it's a close color to sand (the stand is black and reflected the light like a mirror - not very subdued for guys trapped in a small tank)
I blacked-out the back and sides (thanks Albert for the suggestion) with a garbage bag taped in place
I use either a take-out tray, or a take-out lid, for sand. Either depends on who is in QT. The tray is good for wrasses. The lid works well for blennies, gobies etc

For overkill, 'cause I always go overboard;
I installed an Aquaclear Surface Skimmer
I have an 8w hang-on UV run by a Lifeguard 1200
And I have a Tunze 3155 ATO (went through litres/day in the summer)
Plus a Penn-Plax B11 Silent Air battery backup air pump
It's also monitored/temp controlled by my RKE, and has a 120mm PC fan for cooling
And a ground probe as everything is on GFCIs
Oh, and a moonlight :wink:

Guess that's about it

Before the tile, black garbage bag and eggcrate top

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx136/Gregzz4/75%20Gallon%20Build/DSC00955.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx136/Gregzz4/75%20Gallon%20Build/DSC00959.jpg

Newer pic

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx136/Gregzz4/75%20Gallon%20Build/DSC02271_zpsb119ff66.jpg

With a lid for sand and airstones installed

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx136/Gregzz4/75%20Gallon%20Build/DSC02328_zps0fc4c99c.jpg

[mrhasan]

You can make your's as simple as a tank, heater, filter and cheap canopy. $100 would cover it used easily

I kept mine running until I finished buying fish and kept new filter foam blocks in my sump (thanks Brad) for a month or more before use
Whenever I populated the QT, I added more blocks to the sump as I toss the used ones

To answer your initial question Raied, here's mine;
It's a 20g with a 15w freshwater bulb (low intensity is best for a QT) and an eggcrate top. The front half of the crate is cut and removable for arm access. I have had wrasses jump through it so you may be better off with a stock-style canopy
I use a 100w Jager and an Aquaclear 50
And a Seachem Ammo Alert badge
That's all you'd need

I used to keep my tank bare bottom, but it currently has tile as it's a close color to sand (the stand is black and reflected the light like a mirror - not very subdued for guys trapped in a small tank)
I blacked-out the back and sides (thanks Albert for the suggestion) with a garbage bag taped in place
I use either a take-out tray, or a take-out lid, for sand. Either depends on who is in QT. The tray is good for wrasses. The lid works well for blennies, gobies etc

For overkill, 'cause I always go overboard;
I installed an Aquaclear Surface Skimmer
I have an 8w hang-on UV run by a Lifeguard 1200
And I have a Tunze 3155 ATO (went through litres/day in the summer)
Plus a Penn-Plax B11 Silent Air battery backup air pump
It's also monitored/temp controlled by my RKE, and has a 120mm PC fan for cooling
Oh, and a moonlight :wink:

Guess that's about it

Before the tile, black garbage bag and eggcrate top

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx136/Gregzz4/75%20Gallon%20Build/DSC00955.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx136/Gregzz4/75%20Gallon%20Build/DSC00959.jpg

Current pic

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx136/Gregzz4/75%20Gallon%20Build/DSC02271_zpsb119ff66.jpg

Thanks Greg. Its very helpful :) I really don't want any complicated setup since I don't have the space for it (gonna put it right beside my tank). So anything from 20 to 30 gallon is fine I am guessing? I will probably put a copperband in their for treatment (if I can get a good specimen). What sort of medication do you use? Can cupramine and prazipro be used together? Seems like ich and intestinal worms are the two most common diseases.

[gregzz4]

I edited my post, so theres another pic

I don't use copper. Period.... ........ :smile:

I have Prazipro on hand but have not needed to use it yet
I also keep Furan-2 on hand as it doesn't destroy any beneficial bacteria, and I keep a bottle of Prime for emergency Nitrite situations, and AM Guard for emergency Ammonia situations

I wouldn't mix any meds together, ever ! Unless both say they can be

I've done the hypo-salinity thing in the past and it worked great for me for MI (ich) and the guys were in QT for a total of 10 weeks

[mrhasan]

I edited my post, so theres another pic

I don't use copper. Period.... ........ :smile:

I have Prazipro on hand but have not needed to use it yet
I also keep Furan-2 on hand as it doesn't destroy any beneficial bacteria, and I keep a bottle of Prime for emergency Nitrite situations, and AM Guard for emergency Ammonia situations

I wouldn't mix any meds together, ever ! Unless both say they can be

I've done the hypo-salinity thing in the past and it worked great for me for MI (ich) and the guys were in QT for a total of 10 weeks

One thing is I can't feel comfy with hypo since I heard even a 0.001 can be ineffective and I am pretty sure my refracs accuracy deviates between 0.001 to 0.002. Hence the thought about copper.

[Doug]

Nooooo. Not the striped ones?

[mrhasan]

Nooooo. Not the striped ones?

Yap two lined chormis gone! Found one being eaten by the hermit but the other one is MIT.

[gregzz4]

I ran my hypo @ 1.008 and it cured my Tang

[mark]

When laid out out system plan was fuge could also be used as QT by isolating with the valves.

Have a heater, power filter, old SS65 skimmer and bunch of PVC cutoffs and fittings. Idea was could move LR/Chaeto to sump if decided to use copper. If used normal SW, keep LR and if ich showed up, remove the rock and cook for later.

Used it a couple of times but honestly last few fish, direct to display.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h316/das75/fuge_2010.jpg

[Doug]

Yap two lined chormis gone! Found one being eaten by the hermit but the other one is MIT.


:sad: Aww. Sorry

[1eyedjyde]

i have a standard 30 gal tank with a heater and an ac70 hob filter full of sponges. it gets 50% water changes every 2 weeks with tank water from my display and fresh water top ups through out the week. i have had it running since march and i have moved 3 groups of fish through it without disease.

[Leah]

I have a 77 gallon for my QT. Minimal sand bed, live rock, heater, powerhead and skimmer. I just feed lots and soak it all in GarlicX and Selcon. Normal weekly water changes and I do not rush them into my main tanks.