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subnet88
12-12-2013, 01:43 AM
Hi all,

Would anybody be willing to perform a sanity check on the below drawing for a two tank return with added UV.

The input is a 2" Slip connector
The required outputs are:

1x 1" Barbed - To tank 1
1x 1 1/2" Barbed - To Tank 2
2x 3/4" Barbed - to UV

I may eventually run my GFO and carbon off of it as well, So I have left two capped off ends for expansion

I have exaggerated lengths for piping to make them more noticeable, and have not included any unions yet.

My worry, as I don't work with pipes that often, is that I have the correct sizes of adapters, valves and other fittings.

http://i.imgur.com/CItyRE3.gif

StirCrazy
12-12-2013, 12:24 PM
2" pvc pipe won't fit into a 1.5" "+"

take a good look and make sure your fittings are proper size.

also your barbed fittings, is that the barb size? you need to know the other end size to make sure you get the right reducer sizes also.

Steve

IanWR
12-12-2013, 01:48 PM
I would move the gate valve that leads to tank 1 to the other side. By that I mean you have a gate before the T, I would have it after. As you have it now your gate valve restricts the flow both to tank 1 and your reactor/uv setup.

There are other bits and pieces I find confusing. For example you will have a 1.5 pipe, a 1.5 to 1.25 reducer, then a 1 barb, or some such. Wouldn't that reducer have to be 1.5 to 1? Anyhoo, I admire the preplanning!

- Ian

WarDog
12-12-2013, 01:53 PM
I would eliminate that cross fitting and that 1" bullhead tee altogether. That whole area will have poor water flow. I have never seen a cross fitting used by any plumber. Just replace it with a manifold system after your first tee off the pump.

tobysmurf
12-13-2013, 10:49 PM
I agree, a cross fitting will be murder on the water flow, use a manifold instead. You can reduce after the manifold fitting where needed.

intarsiabox
12-14-2013, 12:45 AM
I agree that a manifold would serve you better but I'm also not sure why you have a bunch of couplings coming off your return pump. I would run the 2" line off your pump into a 2" union and then go from there. Unions will make life much easier if you later need to take sections off for maintenance or make changes. I would go with your 2" line from the return pump, union, line to a manifold with however many branch off's you want, a valve at each branch, followed by a union and then lines to wherever they need to go from there. This way every line can be individually controlled and removed without having to shut the pump down.

subnet88
12-14-2013, 01:54 AM
Where would I find a 2" Manifold?

intarsiabox
12-14-2013, 02:11 AM
You would just make one using T's and short pieces of pipe as connectors. Your hot water tank in your house probably has a manifold for both hot and cold water lines to give you an idea about what it looks like.

The Grizz
12-14-2013, 04:46 AM
For sure a manifold coming right off your pump, put a gate valve on each of the lines coming out of the manifold so you can control every bit of flow as some I assume you will want a little different. Keep it simple and as short as possible for max flow and pump life.

If you like I can draw up a plan with all the fitting sizings in the next couple days, LMK.

What pump are you planning on using?

subnet88
12-14-2013, 05:28 AM
Thank you . That would be wonderful.

I have a HY-Drive Waterfall Pump - 6000

My one tank has 10 ft head the other 4 + a 15ft horizontal run

WarDog
12-14-2013, 05:36 AM
Here is a manifold system, albeit a gas manifold, but the theory is the same. Flow is from right to left. The manifold starts after the regulator (or pump in your case). This would be considered a 1" manifold. The first tee is 1" x 3/4" and goes to the furnace. The second tee is 1" x 3/4" again and goes to the range. 3rd tee is 1" x 3/4" x 1/2" with the 1/2" going to the water heater. The end of the manifold on the left carries on in 3/4" to the BBQ and fire pit on the deck. Just out of frame on the left is a 3/4" union and as you can see there is a 1" union just before the reg. The theory is the same for plumbing just utilizing different materials.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2867/11362392774_89b370666e.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/wford/11362392774/)

The Grizz
12-15-2013, 04:11 AM
Thank you . That would be wonderful.

I have a HY-Drive Waterfall Pump - 6000

My one tank has 10 ft head the other 4 + a 15ft horizontal run

I will draft something up for you tomorrow that you can work from that might help.

The Grizz
12-16-2013, 09:44 AM
Ok this is how I would do it, not saying its right but this is my way. Not sure why you need 2 - 3/4" feeds to the UV but if you only need one feed forget the tee and switch the bushing to a coupler and a straight barb like the other 2 lines. For expansion, leave the cap at the top high enough so you can cut it off and add in another tee.

http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx291/GRIZZtheWELDER/Mobile%20Uploads/7E792677-B3EF-4B8B-BD67-CC276E71110D_zps8nr26zqb.jpg (http://s765.photobucket.com/user/GRIZZtheWELDER/media/Mobile%20Uploads/7E792677-B3EF-4B8B-BD67-CC276E71110D_zps8nr26zqb.jpg.html)

WarDog
12-16-2013, 01:22 PM
Ok this is how I would do it, not saying its right but this is my way. Not sure why you need 2 - 3/4" feeds to the UV but if you only need one feed forget the tee and switch the bushing to a coupler and a straight barb like the other 2 lines. For expansion, leave the cap at the top high enough so you can cut it off and add in another tee.

http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx291/GRIZZtheWELDER/Mobile%20Uploads/7E792677-B3EF-4B8B-BD67-CC276E71110D_zps8nr26zqb.jpg (http://s765.photobucket.com/user/GRIZZtheWELDER/media/Mobile%20Uploads/7E792677-B3EF-4B8B-BD67-CC276E71110D_zps8nr26zqb.jpg.html)

This bear can plumb... +1.

subnet88
12-16-2013, 02:28 PM
Thank you Grizz!

Just what I needed.

The Grizz
12-16-2013, 05:00 PM
This bear can plumb... +1.
I have had some practice.

Thank you Grizz!

Just what I needed.

No problem, shoot me a pm if you have a question.