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MARCH 2006

Chin_Lee's 160 Gallon Reef

Thank you Canreefers for choosing my tank as the FTOTM. I started this aquarium hobby with a fish‑only 180 gallon acrylic saltwater tank in 2000. After two years, I could not stand seeing the deep scratches in the acrylic anymore so I to shut the tank down with a plan of doing something bigger and better. This was the major turning point of my aquarium hobby as I ventured into the world of reef- keeping.

System:

During the initial planning stage, the primary objective for my new tank was to make it look like it is part of the room. This was very important because I did not want the tank to seem out of place. My secondary objective was for three-sided viewing with two long sides and one short side. I waited eight months for my tank from Inter-American (Bow Valley) and I finally set up what I have today:

­                     outside dimension of 66'x24'x24'

­                     approximate volume of 160 gallon (total volume including sump 300 gallons)

­                     external overflow on a short side

­                     low-iron (Starphire) glass all around

­                     euro bracing

­                     polished and beveled edges

 

With my objectives in mind, I removed half of the banister and railing between the kitchen and sunken family room. I built the stand into the existing space with a small portion resting on the elevated kitchen side and the remaining in the sunken family room side. As you can see in the picture, the couch fits snugly into the space beside the tank stand. I also matched the brand and color paint for the stand/canopy with the railings/ mouldings in the two rooms.

 

 

 

Other viewing side of the tank.

The display tank is plumbed from the external overflows through the flooring and into my basement where the sump is located. I have three pieces of equipment inside the display tank a Tunze 6060, Tunze 6080 and Seio 1500.

 


 

 

Tank Chemistry:

Specific Gravity: 1.024   Alkalinity:  9-10 dkH   Calcium: 350-400 ppm   Nitrates:  1-2 ppm 

  Temperature: summer 78-82 F / winter 76-80 F  Magnesium: 1200-1400  ppm  Phosphates: Trace

 

Sump and Equipment:

The 180 gallon acrylic tank that I had for the first FO setup was moved into the basement and became the sump. I had split the sump tank into three sections with a 3'x2' section on one end and the second half is split into two. The large 3'x2' section has a 4~5" DSB and this section is my refugium as well as my fish quarantine/isolation area and it is lit by a single 250W Ushio 10000K MH. For nutrient export, I keep chaetophora macroalgae and a floating basket of xenia. The xenia basket is basically a plastic basket from the dollar store that I put foam on the edges to keep afloat. I’ve removed all my xenia from my tanks and throw them into this basket where they eventually attached themselves. It floats around the sump absorbing nitrates and it allows me to stop the xenia from overtaking over my rocks.

 

EQUIPMENT LIST IN THE SUMP

DIY 4' single beckett skimmer pumped by an Iwaki 70RLT at about 1500gph

Gen-X Mak 4 return pump from the sump to the display tank

Phosban reactor with Rowaphos

pH monitor

cooling fan on a Ranco thermostat

Enaly Ozone 200mg/hr generator on a Milwaukee ORP controller

DIY DJ88 square calcium reactor, Milwaukee regulator, 20 lb CO2 bottle

1/3 hp crab tank chiller modified to be used in the sump

several powerheads to increase flow in the refugium

DIY auto topoff

 

 

Lighting and Photoperiod:

The display tank is lit by 3 x 250W XM 10000K metal halides using PFO parallel reflectors. To achieve a sunrise/sunset effect, each light is on a separate timer for an 8 hour photoperiod with a one hour offset for each bulb giving a total of 10 hours of light from dawn to dusk. I also have 2 x 140W VHO actinics that comes on for an hour prior and after sunset. Moonlight will then follow for an hour after the actinics.

 

 

 

Feeding and Maintenance:

I primarily feed PE mysis and I often supplement with Formula Two pellets and nori. Selcon and Garlic Extract are used occasionally. I also plan to use Reef-Roids as coral food. 

I perform a 50 gallon water change every two weeks with RO/DI water. I started off with IO salt then recently switched to Kent. With the recent sub-par alkalinity batches with Kent, I started using 50/50 of both products in each water change in order to minimize any future manufacturer mistakes.

 

Tank Inhabitants: 

This tank has approximately 200-250 lbs of live rock that I acquired from various Canreefers. Their origins appear to be primarily from Fiji although I cannot be 100% certain. 

The display tank is primarily a SPS dominated tank although I do have a number of LPS and some softies. My last tally was in the region of 70+ different species of corals of which there are about 50 different species of SPS. Unfortunately I am not proficient in naming the different species so I will only provide their common names.

 

 

 

Small-Polyped Scleractinian Corals

approximately 40 acroporas

Leng Sy monti cap

green pocillipor

lime green monti cap

pink pocillipor

green body pink rim monti cap

red millepora   

Superman encrusting montipora

green millepora

purple monti cap

green body/ blue tipped millepora

Christmas Tree porites

blue millepora

pink birdnest    

yellow millepora

neon green hydnophora

 

Large-Polyped Scleractinian Corals

green tipped torch

purple elegance

green bubble coral       

bright green pink tipped elegance

goniopora        

candycane

metallic green open brain

fox coral

green tipped branching hammer

octo frogspawn

metallic green donut

green with pink tip frogspawn

red open brain 

pink tipped hammer

red/green blasto

red blasto

 

Fish/Invertebrates

yellow tang

purple tang

single lonely chromis    

unknown fairy wrasse

pair of pajama cardinals

six-line wrasse

blue-sided fairy wrasse

fox coral

cleaner shrimp 

2 false percula clowns

rose bubble-tipped anemone

two Tridacna crocea

white bubble-tipped anemone

several green-tipped anemones

4-5 tiger tail cucumbers

Tuxedo urchin

 

Sump Inhabitants

Achilles tang    

Pair of bangaii cardinals

Leopard wrasse

Yellow watchman goby

Cleaner shrimp

lots of xenia in a basket

Chaetophora

Encrusting green gorgonian

 

 

 

 

Plans for the Horizon:

I am in the process of starting up a 120 gallon 48x24x24 tank in my basement. This tank will be plumbed in between the sump and the display tank so the water will drain from the display tank into this new tank, from the new tank to the sump, and the sump back up to the display tank. My intention was to make this new tank a LPS dominant tank but considering my preference for SPS, I have my doubts.

I will also be dismantling my display tank with the livestock being transferred temporary into the new tank. I would like to implement two ideas with the new display tank set up.

1) Bare bottom but with a fake sand bed by using a clear two part epoxy mixed with sand and spread on the bottom. This will give a sand bed look and I will be able to increase the flow through the tank without any sand flying nor sand shifting.

2) Decrease the amount of rocks in the tank. I currently have some rather large boulders of live rock in my current set up that restricts flow in the lower region of the tank. My plan is to build a PVC structure in the shape of an isosceles trapezoid the length of the tank. The sides and top of the structure will support the rocks in order to achieve the appearance of a wall of rocks and the area under the rocks will then be open space. I will place a Tunze or Seio on one end directing the flow through the PVC structure in ensure that detritus does not collect under the rocks. This will give lots of flow in the lower region and another Tunze near the surface will provide upper region flow.

 

 

I hope you have enjoyed viewing and reading about my tanks. I truly love this hobby and it is amazing to read how this hobby had evolved in the past 2-3 decades. I find it remarkable that we are now able to set up an artificial environment for these animals that were once considered impossible to sustain long term life in an aquarium setting. Not only have we exceeded beyond providing the necessities for life, we have provided an environment for them to thrive. In essence, we have successfully taken a piece of a reef and put it into our homes. This is a hobby that I will grow old with and I look forward to the new ideas and inventions of the future as I believe that it can only get better from herein. I also hope that the new inventions of the future will decrease the mortality rate of the animals we so often take for granted due to their availability at local fish stores.

If I was to give one piece of advice to anybody starting this hobby, it is to research on the internet and various literature available. Do not make your decisions based on a single person’s perspective but of many who have the experience to support their views. Do lots of planning, then plan some more, and take time to go see other people’s tanks and their different setups….. and then start the planning cycle again. 

 

 

Page designed by Paul Callow, 2005