The tank in January
The substrate is coarse
aragonite sand which is home to more bristle worms then I care to
admit. The live rock is mostly Fiji, approximately 20-25 lbs,
and is almost completely encrusted with mushrooms or green star
polyps. There is hardly any rock visible anymore! The pink
coralline algae has really taken off in this tank since I
started adding calcium supplement. It has almost completely
covered my two powerheads (see picture), and is growing on the
glass wherever I don't use the razor. I have considered removing
it from the glass, to get that "clean" look back, but I love the
color and haven't been able to bring myself to scrape it off.

What else can I say about this tank? It is
relatively simple for a reef tank, actually not much more
complex than a freshwater tank. Coming into the world of
saltwater I was scared that I wouldn't have success because of
how complicated everything seemed to be. Honestly, I am still
scared of saltwater. Reading about huge complex reef systems
gets me a little worried that I am doing something wrong with
this tank (or with any of my saltwater tanks for that matter).
But so far I have had great success, so I guess I will just keep
doing it the simple way.
|
Tank Chemistry:
I hate to admit it, but I rarely test this tank's
levels. Once in a blue moon I will test for ammonia,
nitrite, and nitrate, and when I do they are always
optimal (0,0,<10). I recall testing hardness during the
problem with Kent salt, and it was within normal range.
Aside from the necessary chemicals entering the tank
during water changes I add a couple supplements; monthly
I will add calcium to the tank (mainly for the coralline
algae), as well as a small dosage of Kent's Essential
Elements.
|
Lighting and Photoperiod:
The lighting on
this tank is a 36" 192 watt Coralife Aqualight Power
Compact,
1 x 10,000K and 1
x Actinic. This equals roughly 6 watts per gallon of
light. I had a weaker light on the tank previously, which
is why I didn't put any LPS or SPS in the tank. When I
upgraded the light everything started taking off and I
could have added some hard corals, but I decided just to
leave it as a softy tank. I thought it would be neat to
see a tank with only mushrooms and the like. The
photoperiod on this tank is fairly standard; the actinic
lights come on around 9 AM followed by the white lights at
around 10 AM. The white lights then go off at around 9 PM
and the actinic lights off at around 10 PM. There is also
a moonlight on this tank which is on at night (mainly to
aid the clownfish fry in their hatching cycle).
|
Equipment:
Some of you might be a
little surprised to see how basic my setup is on this tank. I
have no sump, no refugium, and nothing other than a filter, a
couple pumps for flow, a heater and a skimmer. The equipment is
as follows:
• Eheim 2213
canister filter
• 250 watt heater
• 2 x Maxijet 600
pumps
• Prizm skimmer
• Glass Top
The skimmer and one of the powerheads shut off at night since the tank
is located in our bedroom. So, the tank is only getting “skimmed” for
approximately 12 hours each day (although I’m not sure how effective
the Prizm skimmer is anyways).
Feeding and Maintenance:
|
The
time I spend maintaining this tank is minimal, it seems to
take care of itself quite nicely. Approximately 5 times a
week I will feed Hikari Brine Shrimp and PE Mysis to the
tank, mainly for the fish but also for the Tube Anenome.
Once a week I will top off the tank with fresh tap water
(that's right!), since I seem to get quite a bit of
evaporation due to the glass top not fitting quite right. |
I also end up razor-blading the front
glass once a week. About once a month I will do a 20% water
change (yep...just tap water- no RO/DI here), remove some
macro algae, and maintain the canister filter. At this time
I will also add two supplements: Reef Calcium and Kent
Essential Elements. And that's it! It's a wonderful little
tank that thankfully takes care of itself without too much
of my interference. |
|
|
Tank
Inhabitants:
I would say this tank is
stocked quite nicely for its size. I could probably add 1 or 2 more
fish, but I do not want to crowd it, and/or ruin the nice balance the
tank has.
2 Ocellaris Clownfish (they
are a pair and produce a new clutch of eggs every 2 weeks)
2 Green Clown Gobies (which
love to fight and are probably both males)
1 6-Line Wrasse
1 Yellow-Tail Blue Damsel
1 Anthias (I think he/she is
lonely and would love to one day have a big school of them in a large
tank)
3 Sexy Shrimp (they cluster
around the tube anemone and never venture very far from it. Funny, I
always thought the anemone would eat them)
1 Bubbletip Anemone (this guy
has been through a lot after I almost killed it in another tank, but
it has come back and seems to be pretty happy)
Orange and Green Tube Anemone
Turbo and Astrea snails
Blue Legged Hermit Crabs
Corals:
Red Mushrooms
Blue Mushrooms
Green Striated Mushrooms
Multicolor Mushroms
Fuzzy Mushroom
Green Star Polyps
Anthelia
Pink Star Polyps Toadstool
Leather
Neon Green Sinularia
Clove Polyps
Zoos
Macroalgae:
Halimeda
Well, that's about it for my 33 gallon softy-reef. I
am very proud of it and hope it continues to flourish for years to come
(although its contents will likely eventually be transferred to a larger
tank). In the future I hope to set up more reef tanks, as I have so many
ideas I need to tinker with. Many will probably be larger tanks but I
love the challenge of creating a reef environment in a small tank. Side
projects are always distracting me, and keeping new and exotic species
is appealing (only to have them flourish and potentially breed, of
course). A current project of mine (along with a few fellow Canreefers)
is to raise my H. reidi seahorse fry to adulthood. I am very ambitious
about this project, since if we can raise captive seahorses it will
decrease the need for them to be collected from the wild (as well as
providing local hobbyists with disease-free and healthy ponies). This is
of course a goal with all saltwater fish and corals, since in this day
and age we should be doing all we can to protect our wild reefs and
fishes, and not help destroy them.